Dresden - Friday April 1

Friday April 01
I was up early and after a short breakfast was off & running for the 8:31 am train to Dresden. I got in the 1st class carriage and set myself up for the 2 hour trip down great  Elbe river to Dresden. It as good to do this section of the river twice (coming & going to/from Prague) as the river scenery was superb. I was unable the spend all my Czech Money so I bought a coffee & chips on the train to get rid of the money.

The train arrived on time and I walked to the Cityherberge, dumped my big pack and was off to the Alte Masters Art Gallery before midday.  The hostel was well positioned and I could walk to all sites.  I first brought a museum pass for 22 euros.  

The Old Masters Gallery was quiet a surprise as an astute gallery director moved all the art work out of Dresden a few months before the bombing, hence they are all here today for me to see. Some famous local artists lost all their work.

I was not allowed to take photos and I took copious notes (at the end of this post) Excellent 16 c work by Cranach & Bottticelli and more.  The quality of the works were high and the restoration skills of the conservators were impressive. The Dutch painters were prominent including Steen, Vermeer, Durer, Rubens, Bol, Rembrandt and Van Dyck.
 I was thrilled to see Giorgoine 'The Sleeping Venice' which provided so much inspiration for later artists (eg Manet). There were more Italian artist as Velazquez and some Spanish El Greco.

After 3 hours I had finished this gallery I  headed off to the New Masters Gallery across the city. 10 minute walk.

Looking at the city of Dresden it has been truly amazing how they have repaired the major buildings and old streets is very impressive. There were many groups who took responsibility for each building in particular the churches. Entire buildings and streetscapes have been rebuilt to the old specifications. Artists and craftsmen have worked hard. Most of the work has been done since 1990. Churchill has a lot to answer for. The Geneva convention makes it clear that the deliberate targeting of civilians is a war crime. After the bombing of Dresden Churchill never would discuss the bombing. He knew what he had done.

Back to the gallery.  This gallery was also good and they had some very early 16c works and these were the earliest paintings that I have seen that bring design elements to importance in the composition. Carl Gustav Caris was the most important artist in 18c in this respect.   Whereas a good representation of French impressionists and the German painter Max Leberman got me interested. Max Slevogt was good and I'll research him more home. Others are in my notes. After this point in the gallery the link to representation in the subsequent painting displayed was completely severed and I lost the plot. I kept some notes.

FOOD became very important as I missed lunch and only had a quick breakfast in Prague. As it was late I found a small street restaurant and had a beer and chicken in a spicy sauce.