Saturday Mar 5
Click here to go to my photo album for this trip
This trip, of course, really started on Friday night when, after a meal at home with Fritz and Beverly we set off at 21:30 to get to Gare Austerlitz for the 22:25 overnight train to Nice and then on to Tende. I was in a cabin away from the others as I had booked the train some time back. I still seemed to suffer a problem sleeping on these trains and I felt that I was awake most of the night.
At dawn I got up an positioned myself at a corridor window to watch the south of France go by. We were traveling along the coast but the views of the Mediterranean was on the other side of the train - the side everyone was sleeping on. I had to be content with views of pretty villages high on slope looking towards the sea. I got some photos but with dirty windows, glare from the rising sun and power poles and other objects whizzing past the camera, the photo were not marvelous.
The train had left Paris 35 minutes late and since we only had 9 minutes to change trains at Nice Fritz was on the move anxious rushing about having conferences with train guards etc. I had noticed that, during my long sleepless night, that the train seemed to going extra fast. The carriages were swaying and occasionally the wheels would shriek on corners. The train was only 5 minutes late when we arrived in Nice. 4 minutes to get off and on to the Tende train. I had unknowing been sharing my cabin with Serge (who was on our ski trip) and we had both realise this minor fact earlier in the morning. Also another trip member, Salonge, was close at hand. We teamed up and after a quick look for our other trip members we hastily followed the signs to the Tende train platform. We were on the train. Fritz was anxious and was last on the train after trying to round-up everyone. He felt sure that my standard of French language was insufficient to ensure I would find my own was to the train. It took him a short period of time to cool.
As the train pulled out of the station we began to realise that this was not a normal train ride. There was "guide" on the train who was explaining the sights as we went along. It became apparent the Nice to Tende trip is a famous tourist rail trip and we were soon at the (dirty) windows clicking away at the steep gorges, cuttings, arched viaducts and villages tucked away in tight corners of the mountains and just hanging on to their high perches. What a prize this train trip was.
We arrived at Tende almost on-time and the mini van was there waiting for us. No one was in a panic any more. The railway station at Tende was far bigger and more impressive than the town seemed to require. It turned out that our old mate Benito Mussolini had built his private retreat here in Tende (when Tende was in Italy) and the station had to match his own importance.
The mini bus wound its way up the hill to Casterino and we began to see just how impressive the area Fritz had chosen for our trip was. Casterino was a village of about 6 significant buildings and our Auberge only just made it into this count. It was a two-story place which, clearly, had been built by its current owner but it was to do the job well. We moved in and immediately pulled on ski boots and joined up in Fritz's room for the briefing of our first ski tour. Fritz had given us instructions to wear our ski gear on the train and have a lunch ready to go. We had all complied and we were on the snow close to the planned 11am.
The first ski tour on Saturday:
The plan was to follow trails marked on our topo map to a lake at 1994 meters (Casterino 1543 meters) and ski back down another valley to Casterino.
We skied north along the prepared nordic trails and made our way up the Vallon de Casterine for about 2 kms at which point all evidence of any further trail stopped. It was decided to climb steeply up the snow slope to try and meet the trail to the lake. After a steep and awkward climb we arrive at a small saddle where there was a small building (and a pitched tent). There was a unanimous decision to stop for lunch. A small chamois decided to graze on the rocks a short distance above us and the photographers were occupied for some time. After lunch we skied about 100 meters and found a National Park information sign indicating we were on the correct trail.
From this point the grade was much better and we move quickly. Passing over a section of minor avalanche activity. Basically some large snow balls had rolled over the track. The scenery was improving fast as more mountain country came into view. After a short time the trail leveled out and we can to the snow covered Lac des Grenouilles. We were surrounded by the high peak of the Cihm duChanvrairee range (2361m)leading around to Mt Ste Marie (2340). Across the Casterino valley was Mont Chajol (2293m - tomorrow's task).
Fritz was still keen to find a route down the Vallon de Fontanalba. Some of the group show a strong preference to return to Casterino the way we had just come up. So the group separated. 4 of us skied with Fritz down over the Fontanalba river bridge and to some small National Park shelters. THe route ahead was not clear and we could not find any evidence of ski tracks. The initial slope down looks good but it finally turned into a very steep drop-off to Casterino. We decided that the better choice at, 1600 hour, was to follow the our group and go back the way we came.
The ski back was reasonable although the ice was a little difficult. We were able to find an alternative to our initial steep climb and got back to the Auberge Ste Marie Madeleine at about 1730, well in time for hot wine and a shower before dinner. Dinner was soup entree followed by a beef main dish, finishing with a blueberry slice and espresso. Accompanied by a number of jugs of local wine.
Showing posts with label Backcountry skiing in France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Backcountry skiing in France. Show all posts
Saturday, March 12, 2011
Sunday, March 6, 2011
Casterino France 2011 March 6 Backcountry Ski trip from the village of Casterino to climb Mont Chajol
Sunday Mar 6
Click here to link to photos of climb
Today we were to investigate the trail up the high range on the eastern side of the Vallon de Casterine. We set out at about 9:30 and headed south, along a nicely prepared nordic track, crossing the bridge over the Castrine river, stopping where the trail began to climb to put our climbing skins on our skies. A grouped of snow shoe'ers were starting out behind us so we made a effort to get ahead to avoid their tracks.
After about 1 km we came to a divide in the track and we assumed that the left route was the ski route up. The snow shoe'ers went to the right. The map seemed, at this point, to confirm our decision. The track continued to a very nice chalet and we took appropriate photos and proceeded upwards. The track/trail soon completely disappeared and we found that we had to climb very steeply up though rock and snow. Final we noticed an excellent trail across a steep little gully. A few deft maneuvers and we were on the track and met the snow shoe'ers again (all snow shoe'ers look the same to me!). Mental notes were recorded for our return trip - umph!
The forest was consistently that of pines and the track was maintaining a constant good grade and we were make reasonable time. We had started at Casterino at 1543m and, after negotiating a number of switch-backs and at approximately 1800m , we began to see the magnitude of the mountains around us. To our west we could see the Rocher of St Marie with some significant peak beginning to appear behind them. Ahead we could see the Pointe de Peirefique (2663m)and the Roche de l'Abisse (2755m) showing its rocky crags impressively above the line of snow on saddle at the top of the Vallon de Cardon.
At 1950m the trees began to thin and the views were spectacular. We could now see the full extent of the western "Rochers" and the impressive Mont Capier (3035m) dominated that horizon.
In front of us now was a clear valley of snow called the Gias de Cardon and a neat little Chalet sat in just the right place. As we continued upward we could see some large round structures built just below the saddle at the top of this valley. I needed to be reminded that this was Italy during WWII and these were blockhouse built by Mussolini to keep the French out. The boarders were redrawn after the war and this, which was once Italy, was now France.
At the saddle the snow was very good and there were a large number of people about. Most on snow shoes but many were on AT skis. We achieved the top of the main ridge and climbed along the ridge line up to a high point to have our lunch. We needed to contemplate on the climb ahead.
Our lunch had been prepared by our hosts at the Auberge in Casterino and was impressive. It consisted of a nice piece of good bread, a mini salami sausage, a carefully wrapped piece of good cheese, a jam tart, a little bag of potatoes chips, a small bag of mixed fruit and nuts and a fresh pear. Normally this quantity would had lasted me about 3 lunches but I managed to eat most of the delights.
The ridge ahead that lead to the top of Mont Chajol (2293m) was surprising climbable and was, to me, an extra bonus on this, yet another, memorable trip that Fritz had organised. I was keen to start up. Only four of our party did the climb. The ridge was steep and the climb was accompanied by a large overhanging cornice leading all the way to the summit.
The first section of the climb took us over two smaller peaks which, at some points looked like we were on an alpine climb. The exposure was very high and a wrong foot would have you 1000m down the slope, on either side, in no time at all. The final climb to the summit was the steepest and the cornice was beside us still as we negotiated the hard icy slope. The general exposure was very apparent and care was in order. At the summit there was not much room for the 20 or so people on top. Standing on the actual peak to take off our climbing skins was a precision operation. Any gear carelessly handled could never be recovered.
The view at the summit was amazing and it is hard to describe it in the manner it deserves. We could now see far to the south and I was told that sometimes the Mediterranean sea could be seen over the Corsica coastline. But southern haze today prevented that view.
To the west we could now see the peaks of Mont des Merveilles (2720m and an impressive rock structure), Mont du Grand Capelet (2935m) and of course Mont Capier (3045m). To the north again the Pointe de Peirefique (2663m) and the Roche de l'Abisse (2755m) stood there bravely holding back the approaching weather. This weather appeared as a sea of low cloud stretching out to a high and distant peak beyond (note: This was Tuesday's view - more about this later). Far far below in the valley was the tiny village of Casterino in the west. Down the eastern slopes was the larger village of Vievola, where the train enters a 6 km tunnel to Italy.
As we stood on top of Mont Chajol we observed the AT skiers descend. Very few handled the icy slope with any style. It was apparent that "me and my Karhu skis" were not going to do this slope easily. After taking the required photos we began our descent. Fritz took an aggressive approach and managed to miss the cornice as he came to a stop. The rest of us took a conservative approach and side-slipped inelegantly down the ice. After we descended the main peak we were able to ski beside the cornice with great care. (Note: on my Tuesday descent this was all hard ice and side-slipping all the way down was the only alternative).
Arriving back at our lunch spot we observed more of the AT skier's style. They were able to handle the slope better down here but they still had difficult on, what had now turned into, severe break-able crust snow conditions. The crust would break up into large piece the size of paving tiles. This would build up around the skis with obvious results. Skiing of any sort was difficult.
At the saddle above the Vallon de Cardon was a ruined stone building and from here down the Gias du Cardon, below the Blockhouses, and on to the small Chalet the snow was excellent. I was able to do a number of tele turns and cruise comfortably to the chalet. Up till now I was beginning to believe I had forgotten how to ski. (on Tuesday this was ok still but not as good this day.)
The ski down the snow shoe track was not easy and the icy condition demanded wide snow plowing in narrow places. At time there was sufficient snow on the sides of the track to ski relatively normally down. I descended down through the many switch-back turns with inelegant style but basically under control. (on my Monday's descent the track had turned into an Olympic standard icy Luge and I had to walk many of the last icy sections.)
We were back at the Auberge Ste Marie Madeleine at about 1530 with plenty of time for a beer and a shower before the 1930 dinner.
Dinner was a slight variation on the previous night and was a gain excellent.
NOTE: I repeated this trip on the following Tuesday - leaving at 900 and returning by 1400. All my photo of the Sunday trip were lost due to a mal-function of my camera and I chose to repeat this climb to recover the lost photo. Actual it was a joy to be able to do this climb twice. The photographic results were not as good at the Saturday's photo as I was on my own and there were few people to photograph. A disappointment moderated by the bonus of doing the climb twice.
Click here to link to photos of climb
Today we were to investigate the trail up the high range on the eastern side of the Vallon de Casterine. We set out at about 9:30 and headed south, along a nicely prepared nordic track, crossing the bridge over the Castrine river, stopping where the trail began to climb to put our climbing skins on our skies. A grouped of snow shoe'ers were starting out behind us so we made a effort to get ahead to avoid their tracks.
After about 1 km we came to a divide in the track and we assumed that the left route was the ski route up. The snow shoe'ers went to the right. The map seemed, at this point, to confirm our decision. The track continued to a very nice chalet and we took appropriate photos and proceeded upwards. The track/trail soon completely disappeared and we found that we had to climb very steeply up though rock and snow. Final we noticed an excellent trail across a steep little gully. A few deft maneuvers and we were on the track and met the snow shoe'ers again (all snow shoe'ers look the same to me!). Mental notes were recorded for our return trip - umph!
The forest was consistently that of pines and the track was maintaining a constant good grade and we were make reasonable time. We had started at Casterino at 1543m and, after negotiating a number of switch-backs and at approximately 1800m , we began to see the magnitude of the mountains around us. To our west we could see the Rocher of St Marie with some significant peak beginning to appear behind them. Ahead we could see the Pointe de Peirefique (2663m)and the Roche de l'Abisse (2755m) showing its rocky crags impressively above the line of snow on saddle at the top of the Vallon de Cardon.
At 1950m the trees began to thin and the views were spectacular. We could now see the full extent of the western "Rochers" and the impressive Mont Capier (3035m) dominated that horizon.
In front of us now was a clear valley of snow called the Gias de Cardon and a neat little Chalet sat in just the right place. As we continued upward we could see some large round structures built just below the saddle at the top of this valley. I needed to be reminded that this was Italy during WWII and these were blockhouse built by Mussolini to keep the French out. The boarders were redrawn after the war and this, which was once Italy, was now France.
At the saddle the snow was very good and there were a large number of people about. Most on snow shoes but many were on AT skis. We achieved the top of the main ridge and climbed along the ridge line up to a high point to have our lunch. We needed to contemplate on the climb ahead.
Our lunch had been prepared by our hosts at the Auberge in Casterino and was impressive. It consisted of a nice piece of good bread, a mini salami sausage, a carefully wrapped piece of good cheese, a jam tart, a little bag of potatoes chips, a small bag of mixed fruit and nuts and a fresh pear. Normally this quantity would had lasted me about 3 lunches but I managed to eat most of the delights.
The ridge ahead that lead to the top of Mont Chajol (2293m) was surprising climbable and was, to me, an extra bonus on this, yet another, memorable trip that Fritz had organised. I was keen to start up. Only four of our party did the climb. The ridge was steep and the climb was accompanied by a large overhanging cornice leading all the way to the summit.
The first section of the climb took us over two smaller peaks which, at some points looked like we were on an alpine climb. The exposure was very high and a wrong foot would have you 1000m down the slope, on either side, in no time at all. The final climb to the summit was the steepest and the cornice was beside us still as we negotiated the hard icy slope. The general exposure was very apparent and care was in order. At the summit there was not much room for the 20 or so people on top. Standing on the actual peak to take off our climbing skins was a precision operation. Any gear carelessly handled could never be recovered.
The view at the summit was amazing and it is hard to describe it in the manner it deserves. We could now see far to the south and I was told that sometimes the Mediterranean sea could be seen over the Corsica coastline. But southern haze today prevented that view.
To the west we could now see the peaks of Mont des Merveilles (2720m and an impressive rock structure), Mont du Grand Capelet (2935m) and of course Mont Capier (3045m). To the north again the Pointe de Peirefique (2663m) and the Roche de l'Abisse (2755m) stood there bravely holding back the approaching weather. This weather appeared as a sea of low cloud stretching out to a high and distant peak beyond (note: This was Tuesday's view - more about this later). Far far below in the valley was the tiny village of Casterino in the west. Down the eastern slopes was the larger village of Vievola, where the train enters a 6 km tunnel to Italy.
As we stood on top of Mont Chajol we observed the AT skiers descend. Very few handled the icy slope with any style. It was apparent that "me and my Karhu skis" were not going to do this slope easily. After taking the required photos we began our descent. Fritz took an aggressive approach and managed to miss the cornice as he came to a stop. The rest of us took a conservative approach and side-slipped inelegantly down the ice. After we descended the main peak we were able to ski beside the cornice with great care. (Note: on my Tuesday descent this was all hard ice and side-slipping all the way down was the only alternative).
Arriving back at our lunch spot we observed more of the AT skier's style. They were able to handle the slope better down here but they still had difficult on, what had now turned into, severe break-able crust snow conditions. The crust would break up into large piece the size of paving tiles. This would build up around the skis with obvious results. Skiing of any sort was difficult.
At the saddle above the Vallon de Cardon was a ruined stone building and from here down the Gias du Cardon, below the Blockhouses, and on to the small Chalet the snow was excellent. I was able to do a number of tele turns and cruise comfortably to the chalet. Up till now I was beginning to believe I had forgotten how to ski. (on Tuesday this was ok still but not as good this day.)
The ski down the snow shoe track was not easy and the icy condition demanded wide snow plowing in narrow places. At time there was sufficient snow on the sides of the track to ski relatively normally down. I descended down through the many switch-back turns with inelegant style but basically under control. (on my Monday's descent the track had turned into an Olympic standard icy Luge and I had to walk many of the last icy sections.)
We were back at the Auberge Ste Marie Madeleine at about 1530 with plenty of time for a beer and a shower before the 1930 dinner.
Dinner was a slight variation on the previous night and was a gain excellent.
NOTE: I repeated this trip on the following Tuesday - leaving at 900 and returning by 1400. All my photo of the Sunday trip were lost due to a mal-function of my camera and I chose to repeat this climb to recover the lost photo. Actual it was a joy to be able to do this climb twice. The photographic results were not as good at the Saturday's photo as I was on my own and there were few people to photograph. A disappointment moderated by the bonus of doing the climb twice.
Monday, February 21, 2011
Day 4 - Back-country ski trip from i re Magi refuge to the village of Nevache
Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22
Monday Feb 21
Our plan for Monday is to return to Nevache via the lower Col l'Echelle at only 1762 meters. The Refuse Manager, Francesca, has decided to climb the Col l'Echelle with us. So we left the refuge a little after 9 am and when Francesca had locked up the refuge.
We ski down the main road which was closed to regular traffic but groomed for skiers. It was a fast run around sweeping curves and switchbacks for about 4 kms. The trail up the Col l'Echelle had been simply packed for skiers by a skidoo and we quickly settled into a reasonably fast pace up the steep (for vehicles that is) and long climb.. There were a number of kilometer long switchbacks and each turn gave us wonderful view of high mountain peaks. The I'Aiguille Rouge (2545m), with its red limestone faces, and the Pointe Gaspand (2808m) on the east side of the valley.
Just before the top of the climb there were avalanche chutes to negotiate and tunnels to ski through (there is no snow inside tunnels!!). Final the national park display sign indicate the top and Francesca said her good-byes and skied back down. Fritz and I continue on a began to meet large group of walkers and skier ascending up from the far side. The Col l'Echelle had not yet been reached and it was another 2 kms of gentle climbing before we got there. There were a large number of skiers photographing each other at the Col sign post.
It was a nice easy run down the road to Nevache. the snow got a little thin before the end but caused up little problems.
We had been concern as to how we would ski/walk to Nevache but on reaching the main road we discover a freshly groomed cross-country racing trail. This trail when all the way to Nevache. At Nevache we got into trouble from the race organize for skiing on the track without registering first. Fritz calmed her down and when she heard where we had skied from she became very friendly and we were able to continue skiing on her track.
We may our way along the river, occasionally crossing the road and skiing between the houses. We arrive in the old village very early and in time to have lunch. After photographing the old church we had lunch at the Auberge Guillaume. After lunch we left our packs at the restaurant and skied further up the valley to some high small chapels. This gave us some good view of the valley and a nice ski run back down.
We picked up our pack and went to the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" to pick up my pack that had been left behind on Saturday. We had some hot wine here to fill in time before the bus left.
The Bus left at 7pm and we got on the train at Briancon to Paris. 10 hours to sleep.
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| Lodge Manager Francesca |
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| Refuse I de Magi |
Our plan for Monday is to return to Nevache via the lower Col l'Echelle at only 1762 meters. The Refuse Manager, Francesca, has decided to climb the Col l'Echelle with us. So we left the refuge a little after 9 am and when Francesca had locked up the refuge.
We ski down the main road which was closed to regular traffic but groomed for skiers. It was a fast run around sweeping curves and switchbacks for about 4 kms. The trail up the Col l'Echelle had been simply packed for skiers by a skidoo and we quickly settled into a reasonably fast pace up the steep (for vehicles that is) and long climb.. There were a number of kilometer long switchbacks and each turn gave us wonderful view of high mountain peaks. The I'Aiguille Rouge (2545m), with its red limestone faces, and the Pointe Gaspand (2808m) on the east side of the valley.
Just before the top of the climb there were avalanche chutes to negotiate and tunnels to ski through (there is no snow inside tunnels!!). Final the national park display sign indicate the top and Francesca said her good-byes and skied back down. Fritz and I continue on a began to meet large group of walkers and skier ascending up from the far side. The Col l'Echelle had not yet been reached and it was another 2 kms of gentle climbing before we got there. There were a large number of skiers photographing each other at the Col sign post.
It was a nice easy run down the road to Nevache. the snow got a little thin before the end but caused up little problems.
We had been concern as to how we would ski/walk to Nevache but on reaching the main road we discover a freshly groomed cross-country racing trail. This trail when all the way to Nevache. At Nevache we got into trouble from the race organize for skiing on the track without registering first. Fritz calmed her down and when she heard where we had skied from she became very friendly and we were able to continue skiing on her track.
We may our way along the river, occasionally crossing the road and skiing between the houses. We arrive in the old village very early and in time to have lunch. After photographing the old church we had lunch at the Auberge Guillaume. After lunch we left our packs at the restaurant and skied further up the valley to some high small chapels. This gave us some good view of the valley and a nice ski run back down.
We picked up our pack and went to the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" to pick up my pack that had been left behind on Saturday. We had some hot wine here to fill in time before the bus left.
The Bus left at 7pm and we got on the train at Briancon to Paris. 10 hours to sleep.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Day 3 - Back-country ski trip from the i Re Magi Refuge to the Col du Mont Thabon
Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22Sunday Feb 20
Well dawn broke at the i re Magi refuge with a surprise heavy snow fall around the refuge. We now planned to spend 2 nights at the i Re Magi.
Today (Sunday) we will complete the planned day trip over the Col de la Vallee-l'Echelle to the Mont Thabon refuge despite the snow.
We have decided not to return to Nevache village via the Col des Muandes 2828 meters on Monday. Fritz's investigation from local information suggested this route would be harder and 2 hours longer than our trip yesterday (day 2 - Saturday). Our modified plan for Monday is to return to Nevache via the lower Col l'Echelle at only 1762 meters. The Refuse Manager, Francesca, has decided to climb the Col l'Echelle with us. Her home area is around Naples where her summer job is as a Mountain guide. 
After a good breakfast Fritz and I set out in the snow for the Col de la Vallee-Etoite at 2526 meters. We skied back along the road that we can down yesterday over-taking a group of snow-shoers at the top of the first climb. We past the sign post at the track junction and this time continued north to cross the river on the Pont de la Fonderie (1897 meters) over the river Ruisseau de Vallee Etoite. We spent some time here taking photos and the Snow-shoers caught up to us. As we were following fresh ski tracks we had to work a little hard to get ahead of them again. The snow shoe tracks are no good to follow on skis. The ski tracks we were following where those of a group which left the Refuge 1 hour before us. They had to cross the Col de la Vallee-Etoite to catch a train at the larger town of Modane. Modane is about 12 km after crossing the Col.
We climbed steadily for about 1 km and reached a height of 2188 meters where we dropped down to cross a creek and then climbed steadily for about 2 km to 2326 meters. At this point the weather was turning with a stong wind and wet snow. Visibility was down to 3-5 meters in front and the ski trail was very difficult to follow. We were about 1 km from the Col but still needed to climb 200 meters. Fritz called a stop and had no opposition. We turned back and headed back down. The snow was excellent and skiing should have been great but, as this was a fresh fall it was "just" covering large limestone rocks. As soon as we start to ski we would crash (audibly) into these rocks with the usual results. Skiing remained like this until we were almost back to the river were we had a very nice 1 km run back to the bridge. Life wasn't meant to be easy.
On our way up earlier in the day we had seen a side trail to the Verde Lac and Fritz though this would be a nice place to have lunch so, on our return we took the trail. The trail descended to a bridge and then went vertically up a steep slope. The snow-shoers had no problem here but we did. There appeared to be an easier trail at a lower traverse and we cut that way for a while. We could not find the lake even after going almost all the way around the ridge. We finally went back to the original slope, took out skies off and walked up the steep slope. "Surprisingly" we ended up at a viewing point for the Lake. Not satisfied Fritz plugged steps down to the lake and we finally decided that it wasn't a very good lunch spot or a very good lake for that matter. We returned to the i re Magi refuge for lunch. A much more pleasant place.
Fritz went for a short afternoon ski on his own and took my Karhu Guide skis to try them out. He is now a convert and tried to get me to sell them to him.
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Day 2 - Back-country ski trip from the village of Nevache to the Col du Vallon
Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22
Saturday Feb 19 Click here for Photo album
After a good breakfast at the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" we were away at 8:50am heading back up the road to the walking track and upwards. We made good time and were feeling much better after a good sleep, and that I had left some "surplus" gear behind in the Gire (to be collected on Monday) so my pack was lighter.
We reached the top of the main climb in less than an hour and were up a the Chapel St Michel in less than 2 hours. The skies were clear and there was no wind today but we had put on our skins much earlier this time. We made our way passed the abandoned Chalet de Vallon refuge and headed more directly towards the Col du Vallon. Basically following our downwards ski tracks of yesterday. We could also see the faint downhill tracks of a previous ski group and this increased our confidence in our route selection.
We were enclosed by the sawing heights of the peaks of Crete des Garioles to the west and Rechers de la Paria, whose steep yellow/red limestone crags dominated the east side of the Vallee of the Torrent du Vallon. Our route was consistently steep as we traversed across the snow slope. Occasional "booming" sounds on fresh wind blown snow in small gullies reminded us that there was an ice layer beneath our feet and to constantly be aware of avalanche dangers. Fritz reprimanded me for skiing too close behind him as we should be well separated in these conditions. It was my turn to cut the track so I moved to the front.
Ahead we could make out the approximate position of the Col du Vallon. The Tour du Vallon (Tower of Vallon) could clearly be seen but the Col itself was obscured. On reaching the point where we had been forced to turn back yesterday the Col came in to view between the 2858 meter peak, le Recher Blanc, on the west and the impressive 2809 meter tower, the Tour du Vallon, on the east. Our re-estimates of the time from here to the Col was the same as yesterday as the route looked just as steep. The route took us up steeply to a narrow ridge which, surprisingly, lead directly to the Col at a reasonable slope. To our west was a circle of peaks surrounding Lac Blanc, the source of our "Torrent du Vallon". These 2900+ peaks dropped steep slopes to the lake. Fritz decided this was the spot for lunch as we could easily see our route to the Col. It was midday and we were here in good time.
Looking south down the Torrent du Vallon was an impressive view of distant craggy limestone peaks. The highest, was a "Matterhorn like" peak to the south. I have guessed it to be the 4102 meter peak in the south called "Barre des Ecrins". We left this very pleasant and memorable lunch spot and started our climb up to the Col du Vallon. We traversed around and small gully and worked our way on to the fine snow ridge which lead to the Col. Then, finally, we were on the Col du Vallon at 2645 meters. A small concrete plinth about 1 meter high, in a area scoured free of snow, marked the crossing. We took the time to experience such a remote and wild place as this, looking across to Lac Blanc and down the Torrents du Vallon from where we had came. We were satisfied that it was the correct decision to turn back yesterday and to repeat the crossing again today.
Our attention soon turned to the way forward. The Col presented us with a single and challenging prospect. The only way down was a double black run for some 200 meters or so. We didn't even think about removing our climbing skins and proceeded across the stones to the slope and pushed off. The snow was not dry, it was deep and require a definite attitude and angulation to keep our descent under control. we managed to get down the major slope without incident and took our climbing skins off for the remainder of the run. The snow was still heavy but skiing was better and we had a reasonably good run. To exit this valley we had to keep to the east side and pass under some very high and steep slopes coming down from the Tete du Chien. We moved quickly as we were able to follow the "up tracks" of previous skiers.
At the end of this traverse, at 2392 meters the snow condition deteriorated as the temperature dropped. A thick breakable crust developed over a deep layer of heavy fresh snow. The temperature has been around zero for most of the day. Ski-breakthrough-bog-fall became a repeated and frustrating sequence. Crust would break up into the thickness and weight of paving tiles. Impossible to turn. We muddled our was down to better slopes. The beauty of the mountains made up for the lack of skiing thrills. The 3222 meter peak Roche Bernarde and 3153 meter Pointe Balthazar were impressive companions.
At a high point a Christian Cross had been erected and we could see down to some ruined Chalets which we knew to be not far from our destination refuge "i re Magi" (The three Kings - we're in old Italian country now - the French just think it France). From here we reached a well used track down to the river "Ruisseau de Vallee Etrolte". A track junction sign-posted the way to our refuge for the night. (we are to return to this track junction tomorrow on our way to Mt Thabor - Sunday).
The track to i re Magi was well used and all downhill. So the next 2 kms went very quickly and skiing was more relaxed. The refuge i re Magi was in a little village and was a welcome sight. We were greeted by the very friendly Refuge Manager. We showered and changed for dinner, life slowed down and relaxation took over as we drank le vin et la bière. The meal was Italian - anti pasta, etc.
I re Mage was a popular destination and a party of 35 people came up on the (closed) road from the Italian side on skis, snowshoes and some came in to the refuge on a tiny over snow vehicle. They partied late and disappeared sometime during the night. i re Magi has a reputation for good food.
Slept well that night.
Saturday Feb 19 Click here for Photo album
We reached the top of the main climb in less than an hour and were up a the Chapel St Michel in less than 2 hours. The skies were clear and there was no wind today but we had put on our skins much earlier this time. We made our way passed the abandoned Chalet de Vallon refuge and headed more directly towards the Col du Vallon. Basically following our downwards ski tracks of yesterday. We could also see the faint downhill tracks of a previous ski group and this increased our confidence in our route selection. 
We were enclosed by the sawing heights of the peaks of Crete des Garioles to the west and Rechers de la Paria, whose steep yellow/red limestone crags dominated the east side of the Vallee of the Torrent du Vallon. Our route was consistently steep as we traversed across the snow slope. Occasional "booming" sounds on fresh wind blown snow in small gullies reminded us that there was an ice layer beneath our feet and to constantly be aware of avalanche dangers. Fritz reprimanded me for skiing too close behind him as we should be well separated in these conditions. It was my turn to cut the track so I moved to the front. 
Ahead we could make out the approximate position of the Col du Vallon. The Tour du Vallon (Tower of Vallon) could clearly be seen but the Col itself was obscured. On reaching the point where we had been forced to turn back yesterday the Col came in to view between the 2858 meter peak, le Recher Blanc, on the west and the impressive 2809 meter tower, the Tour du Vallon, on the east. Our re-estimates of the time from here to the Col was the same as yesterday as the route looked just as steep. The route took us up steeply to a narrow ridge which, surprisingly, lead directly to the Col at a reasonable slope. To our west was a circle of peaks surrounding Lac Blanc, the source of our "Torrent du Vallon". These 2900+ peaks dropped steep slopes to the lake. Fritz decided this was the spot for lunch as we could easily see our route to the Col. It was midday and we were here in good time. 
Looking south down the Torrent du Vallon was an impressive view of distant craggy limestone peaks. The highest, was a "Matterhorn like" peak to the south. I have guessed it to be the 4102 meter peak in the south called "Barre des Ecrins". We left this very pleasant and memorable lunch spot and started our climb up to the Col du Vallon. We traversed around and small gully and worked our way on to the fine snow ridge which lead to the Col. Then, finally, we were on the Col du Vallon at 2645 meters. A small concrete plinth about 1 meter high, in a area scoured free of snow, marked the crossing. We took the time to experience such a remote and wild place as this, looking across to Lac Blanc and down the Torrents du Vallon from where we had came. We were satisfied that it was the correct decision to turn back yesterday and to repeat the crossing again today.
Our attention soon turned to the way forward. The Col presented us with a single and challenging prospect. The only way down was a double black run for some 200 meters or so. We didn't even think about removing our climbing skins and proceeded across the stones to the slope and pushed off. The snow was not dry, it was deep and require a definite attitude and angulation to keep our descent under control. we managed to get down the major slope without incident and took our climbing skins off for the remainder of the run. The snow was still heavy but skiing was better and we had a reasonably good run. To exit this valley we had to keep to the east side and pass under some very high and steep slopes coming down from the Tete du Chien. We moved quickly as we were able to follow the "up tracks" of previous skiers.
At the end of this traverse, at 2392 meters the snow condition deteriorated as the temperature dropped. A thick breakable crust developed over a deep layer of heavy fresh snow. The temperature has been around zero for most of the day. Ski-breakthrough-bog-fall became a repeated and frustrating sequence. Crust would break up into the thickness and weight of paving tiles. Impossible to turn. We muddled our was down to better slopes. The beauty of the mountains made up for the lack of skiing thrills. The 3222 meter peak Roche Bernarde and 3153 meter Pointe Balthazar were impressive companions. 
At a high point a Christian Cross had been erected and we could see down to some ruined Chalets which we knew to be not far from our destination refuge "i re Magi" (The three Kings - we're in old Italian country now - the French just think it France). From here we reached a well used track down to the river "Ruisseau de Vallee Etrolte". A track junction sign-posted the way to our refuge for the night. (we are to return to this track junction tomorrow on our way to Mt Thabor - Sunday).
The track to i re Magi was well used and all downhill. So the next 2 kms went very quickly and skiing was more relaxed. The refuge i re Magi was in a little village and was a welcome sight. We were greeted by the very friendly Refuge Manager. We showered and changed for dinner, life slowed down and relaxation took over as we drank le vin et la bière. The meal was Italian - anti pasta, etc.I re Mage was a popular destination and a party of 35 people came up on the (closed) road from the Italian side on skis, snowshoes and some came in to the refuge on a tiny over snow vehicle. They partied late and disappeared sometime during the night. i re Magi has a reputation for good food.
Slept well that night.
Friday, February 18, 2011
Day 1 - Back-country ski trip from the village of Nevache to the Col du Vallon
Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22
Thursday Feb 17 Click here for Photo Album
I went to Gare Austerlitz to buy my return ticket to Biancon. I was imediately told that the Eurail Pass seat quota was full and I could not get a seat. As this was a new SNCF system I complained and was sent to the Information Department where I spoke to the Information Manager (the only English speaker). He was very sympathetic and agreed with me when I pointed out that the Eurail "Rule Book" (I was waving infront of him) made no mention of SNCF pass quotas. After 2.5 hours of negotiation with the ticket selling Department he organized a 'gift' of the seat to me as I was an important international customer!!! This would have seriously threatened our trip as Fritz had already booked his seat and the alternative trains times were very inconvenient and this was an excellent outcome.
After Dinner Fritz and I set off for the 10pm train from Gade Austerlitz to Biancon. The compartment was for six and we were supplied with a light weight sleeping bag and water. I found it very difficult to sleep and did not get much sleep at all.
The train was 2.5 hours late arriving at Biancon and this severely compromised out planned tour from Nevache village across the Vol du Vallon to "i Re Mesa" refuse. This tour was to take at least a 5 hour trip. We hurriedly started out at 1150am at Nevache (1620 meters) and skied west up a snow covered road for about 1 kilometer where we took a very steep walking track and climbed up to 1982 meters.
we took about 1 hour. We were feeling the fast pace and the lack of sleep. My pack was heavy with extra clothing and emergency gear. We also had essential avalanche equipment of snow shovel, beacons and probes.
The valley now flattened a little and the track was snow covered so we put on our skies. The scenery was very beautiful now as high limestone peaks
of the Crete de la Charmette began to tower steeply above us. The geological folded patterns in their high yellow cliffs added to their craggy awesome presence.
Ahead the ski trail was making it way to a little stone chapel perched high above us. We could see it had a bell tower and bell. It was called Chapel St Michel. We had a short chat with a French couple who were sheltering in the doorway and we moved on. It was 2pm. The wind was now very strong and cold. The terrain was steep so we put on our full length climbing skins. We chose to follow the top a ridge which led to the Col de Vallon. We were climbing steeply and slowly now but moving continuously. The peaks of Crete des Garioles and Re de la Paria surrounding the Col were like giant sentinels with their sharp pointed crags.
Feeling very tried we arrived at a high point where we could see the route to the Col du Vallon. We estimated that it would take more than an hour to reach this Col. It was now 3:15pm. We had come a little over half the distance and had no idea as to the problems we were to encounter once we crossed the Col du Vallon. The terrain was steep and the navigation had to be precise. At best we may reach the refuge i Re Magi at 7pm - 1 hour in darkness. This was a life and death decision as there was no shelter before the refuge. It was clear we had to turn back. I was concerned that this would also result in a late night but Fitz felt sure we could get back in daylight. We knew all the risks on the return trip and there would be no surprises.
We removes our climbing skins and turned back, this time skiing directly back to the chapel, (checking out an accessable attic in an abandoned refuge as possible emergency shelter on the way) then slide-slipped down the steep slope below the Chapel and on along the Torrent du Vallon river to the walking track. We arrived back at the small town of Nevache at 1730 with 1/2 an hour of daylight remaining.
Asking at a local shop we were directed to the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" where we found dormitory beds for $38 - dinner bed & breakfast. We settled in to a Vin Chaud (hot wine) both of us relieved to be down safely. Dinner was a cheese omellette and garlic potatoes. This was a most enjoyable meal and a little better that we would have had in the attic of the abandoned refuge.
Our revised plan was to start the trip again early tomorrow morning and cross over the Col du Vallon at lunch time. We should then have plenty of time to work through the problems skiing down from the Col du Vallon to the refuge I Re Magi.
Thursday Feb 17 Click here for Photo Album
I went to Gare Austerlitz to buy my return ticket to Biancon. I was imediately told that the Eurail Pass seat quota was full and I could not get a seat. As this was a new SNCF system I complained and was sent to the Information Department where I spoke to the Information Manager (the only English speaker). He was very sympathetic and agreed with me when I pointed out that the Eurail "Rule Book" (I was waving infront of him) made no mention of SNCF pass quotas. After 2.5 hours of negotiation with the ticket selling Department he organized a 'gift' of the seat to me as I was an important international customer!!! This would have seriously threatened our trip as Fritz had already booked his seat and the alternative trains times were very inconvenient and this was an excellent outcome.
After Dinner Fritz and I set off for the 10pm train from Gade Austerlitz to Biancon. The compartment was for six and we were supplied with a light weight sleeping bag and water. I found it very difficult to sleep and did not get much sleep at all.
The train was 2.5 hours late arriving at Biancon and this severely compromised out planned tour from Nevache village across the Vol du Vallon to "i Re Mesa" refuse. This tour was to take at least a 5 hour trip. We hurriedly started out at 1150am at Nevache (1620 meters) and skied west up a snow covered road for about 1 kilometer where we took a very steep walking track and climbed up to 1982 meters.
we took about 1 hour. We were feeling the fast pace and the lack of sleep. My pack was heavy with extra clothing and emergency gear. We also had essential avalanche equipment of snow shovel, beacons and probes.
The valley now flattened a little and the track was snow covered so we put on our skies. The scenery was very beautiful now as high limestone peaks
of the Crete de la Charmette began to tower steeply above us. The geological folded patterns in their high yellow cliffs added to their craggy awesome presence.
Ahead the ski trail was making it way to a little stone chapel perched high above us. We could see it had a bell tower and bell. It was called Chapel St Michel. We had a short chat with a French couple who were sheltering in the doorway and we moved on. It was 2pm. The wind was now very strong and cold. The terrain was steep so we put on our full length climbing skins. We chose to follow the top a ridge which led to the Col de Vallon. We were climbing steeply and slowly now but moving continuously. The peaks of Crete des Garioles and Re de la Paria surrounding the Col were like giant sentinels with their sharp pointed crags.
Feeling very tried we arrived at a high point where we could see the route to the Col du Vallon. We estimated that it would take more than an hour to reach this Col. It was now 3:15pm. We had come a little over half the distance and had no idea as to the problems we were to encounter once we crossed the Col du Vallon. The terrain was steep and the navigation had to be precise. At best we may reach the refuge i Re Magi at 7pm - 1 hour in darkness. This was a life and death decision as there was no shelter before the refuge. It was clear we had to turn back. I was concerned that this would also result in a late night but Fitz felt sure we could get back in daylight. We knew all the risks on the return trip and there would be no surprises.
We removes our climbing skins and turned back, this time skiing directly back to the chapel, (checking out an accessable attic in an abandoned refuge as possible emergency shelter on the way) then slide-slipped down the steep slope below the Chapel and on along the Torrent du Vallon river to the walking track. We arrived back at the small town of Nevache at 1730 with 1/2 an hour of daylight remaining.
Asking at a local shop we were directed to the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" where we found dormitory beds for $38 - dinner bed & breakfast. We settled in to a Vin Chaud (hot wine) both of us relieved to be down safely. Dinner was a cheese omellette and garlic potatoes. This was a most enjoyable meal and a little better that we would have had in the attic of the abandoned refuge.
Our revised plan was to start the trip again early tomorrow morning and cross over the Col du Vallon at lunch time. We should then have plenty of time to work through the problems skiing down from the Col du Vallon to the refuge I Re Magi.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Back-country ski trip in Briancon area in South France
Fritz has come in and explained the details of the Ski trip they are planning now - looks great. We are leaving on the 2300 night train to Briancon (near Genolble in the south). We now have to do some planning and preparation.
From Briancon we will bus to the village of Nevache and immediately start the 16km (1034 meter climb) tour up the Torrent du Vallon and cross the Col du Vallon to the refuge "i Re Magi" (1780 meters) in the Vallee Etroite.
On Friday we are to ski to the Refuge Mont Thabon and return which is about 16kms return and a 700 meter climb.
On Saturday is another 1000 meter climb and we need to retrace our steps back towards the Col du Vallon but head north to the lac du Lavor and cross the Col des Munndes (2828 meters). Descending the Torrent de Brune to the Refugedes Drayeres (2152 meters). Monday we would return to Nevache.
From Briancon we will bus to the village of Nevache and immediately start the 16km (1034 meter climb) tour up the Torrent du Vallon and cross the Col du Vallon to the refuge "i Re Magi" (1780 meters) in the Vallee Etroite.
On Friday we are to ski to the Refuge Mont Thabon and return which is about 16kms return and a 700 meter climb.
On Saturday is another 1000 meter climb and we need to retrace our steps back towards the Col du Vallon but head north to the lac du Lavor and cross the Col des Munndes (2828 meters). Descending the Torrent de Brune to the Refugedes Drayeres (2152 meters). Monday we would return to Nevache.
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