Sunday Mar 6
Click here to link to photos of climb
Today we were to investigate the trail up the high range on the eastern side of the Vallon de Casterine. We set out at about 9:30 and headed south, along a nicely prepared nordic track, crossing the bridge over the Castrine river, stopping where the trail began to climb to put our climbing skins on our skies. A grouped of snow shoe'ers were starting out behind us so we made a effort to get ahead to avoid their tracks.
After about 1 km we came to a divide in the track and we assumed that the left route was the ski route up. The snow shoe'ers went to the right. The map seemed, at this point, to confirm our decision. The track continued to a very nice chalet and we took appropriate photos and proceeded upwards. The track/trail soon completely disappeared and we found that we had to climb very steeply up though rock and snow. Final we noticed an excellent trail across a steep little gully. A few deft maneuvers and we were on the track and met the snow shoe'ers again (all snow shoe'ers look the same to me!). Mental notes were recorded for our return trip - umph!
The forest was consistently that of pines and the track was maintaining a constant good grade and we were make reasonable time. We had started at Casterino at 1543m and, after negotiating a number of switch-backs and at approximately 1800m , we began to see the magnitude of the mountains around us. To our west we could see the Rocher of St Marie with some significant peak beginning to appear behind them. Ahead we could see the Pointe de Peirefique (2663m)and the Roche de l'Abisse (2755m) showing its rocky crags impressively above the line of snow on saddle at the top of the Vallon de Cardon.
At 1950m the trees began to thin and the views were spectacular. We could now see the full extent of the western "Rochers" and the impressive Mont Capier (3035m) dominated that horizon.
In front of us now was a clear valley of snow called the Gias de Cardon and a neat little Chalet sat in just the right place. As we continued upward we could see some large round structures built just below the saddle at the top of this valley. I needed to be reminded that this was Italy during WWII and these were blockhouse built by Mussolini to keep the French out. The boarders were redrawn after the war and this, which was once Italy, was now France.
At the saddle the snow was very good and there were a large number of people about. Most on snow shoes but many were on AT skis. We achieved the top of the main ridge and climbed along the ridge line up to a high point to have our lunch. We needed to contemplate on the climb ahead.
Our lunch had been prepared by our hosts at the Auberge in Casterino and was impressive. It consisted of a nice piece of good bread, a mini salami sausage, a carefully wrapped piece of good cheese, a jam tart, a little bag of potatoes chips, a small bag of mixed fruit and nuts and a fresh pear. Normally this quantity would had lasted me about 3 lunches but I managed to eat most of the delights.
The ridge ahead that lead to the top of Mont Chajol (2293m) was surprising climbable and was, to me, an extra bonus on this, yet another, memorable trip that Fritz had organised. I was keen to start up. Only four of our party did the climb. The ridge was steep and the climb was accompanied by a large overhanging cornice leading all the way to the summit.
The first section of the climb took us over two smaller peaks which, at some points looked like we were on an alpine climb. The exposure was very high and a wrong foot would have you 1000m down the slope, on either side, in no time at all. The final climb to the summit was the steepest and the cornice was beside us still as we negotiated the hard icy slope. The general exposure was very apparent and care was in order. At the summit there was not much room for the 20 or so people on top. Standing on the actual peak to take off our climbing skins was a precision operation. Any gear carelessly handled could never be recovered.
The view at the summit was amazing and it is hard to describe it in the manner it deserves. We could now see far to the south and I was told that sometimes the Mediterranean sea could be seen over the Corsica coastline. But southern haze today prevented that view.
To the west we could now see the peaks of Mont des Merveilles (2720m and an impressive rock structure), Mont du Grand Capelet (2935m) and of course Mont Capier (3045m). To the north again the Pointe de Peirefique (2663m) and the Roche de l'Abisse (2755m) stood there bravely holding back the approaching weather. This weather appeared as a sea of low cloud stretching out to a high and distant peak beyond (note: This was Tuesday's view - more about this later). Far far below in the valley was the tiny village of Casterino in the west. Down the eastern slopes was the larger village of Vievola, where the train enters a 6 km tunnel to Italy.
As we stood on top of Mont Chajol we observed the AT skiers descend. Very few handled the icy slope with any style. It was apparent that "me and my Karhu skis" were not going to do this slope easily. After taking the required photos we began our descent. Fritz took an aggressive approach and managed to miss the cornice as he came to a stop. The rest of us took a conservative approach and side-slipped inelegantly down the ice. After we descended the main peak we were able to ski beside the cornice with great care. (Note: on my Tuesday descent this was all hard ice and side-slipping all the way down was the only alternative).
Arriving back at our lunch spot we observed more of the AT skier's style. They were able to handle the slope better down here but they still had difficult on, what had now turned into, severe break-able crust snow conditions. The crust would break up into large piece the size of paving tiles. This would build up around the skis with obvious results. Skiing of any sort was difficult.
At the saddle above the Vallon de Cardon was a ruined stone building and from here down the Gias du Cardon, below the Blockhouses, and on to the small Chalet the snow was excellent. I was able to do a number of tele turns and cruise comfortably to the chalet. Up till now I was beginning to believe I had forgotten how to ski. (on Tuesday this was ok still but not as good this day.)
The ski down the snow shoe track was not easy and the icy condition demanded wide snow plowing in narrow places. At time there was sufficient snow on the sides of the track to ski relatively normally down. I descended down through the many switch-back turns with inelegant style but basically under control. (on my Monday's descent the track had turned into an Olympic standard icy Luge and I had to walk many of the last icy sections.)
We were back at the Auberge Ste Marie Madeleine at about 1530 with plenty of time for a beer and a shower before the 1930 dinner.
Dinner was a slight variation on the previous night and was a gain excellent.
NOTE: I repeated this trip on the following Tuesday - leaving at 900 and returning by 1400. All my photo of the Sunday trip were lost due to a mal-function of my camera and I chose to repeat this climb to recover the lost photo. Actual it was a joy to be able to do this climb twice. The photographic results were not as good at the Saturday's photo as I was on my own and there were few people to photograph. A disappointment moderated by the bonus of doing the climb twice.
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