Thursday Feb 17 Click here for Photo Album
I went to Gare Austerlitz to buy my return ticket to Biancon. I was imediately told that the Eurail Pass seat quota was full and I could not get a seat. As this was a new SNCF system I complained and was sent to the Information Department where I spoke to the Information Manager (the only English speaker). He was very sympathetic and agreed with me when I pointed out that the Eurail "Rule Book" (I was waving infront of him) made no mention of SNCF pass quotas. After 2.5 hours of negotiation with the ticket selling Department he organized a 'gift' of the seat to me as I was an important international customer!!! This would have seriously threatened our trip as Fritz had already booked his seat and the alternative trains times were very inconvenient and this was an excellent outcome.
After Dinner Fritz and I set off for the 10pm train from Gade Austerlitz to Biancon. The compartment was for six and we were supplied with a light weight sleeping bag and water. I found it very difficult to sleep and did not get much sleep at all.
The train was 2.5 hours late arriving at Biancon and this severely compromised out planned tour from Nevache village across the Vol du Vallon to "i Re Mesa" refuse. This tour was to take at least a 5 hour trip. We hurriedly started out at 1150am at Nevache (1620 meters) and skied west up a snow covered road for about 1 kilometer where we took a very steep walking track and climbed up to 1982 meters.
we took about 1 hour. We were feeling the fast pace and the lack of sleep. My pack was heavy with extra clothing and emergency gear. We also had essential avalanche equipment of snow shovel, beacons and probes.
The valley now flattened a little and the track was snow covered so we put on our skies. The scenery was very beautiful now as high limestone peaks
of the Crete de la Charmette began to tower steeply above us. The geological folded patterns in their high yellow cliffs added to their craggy awesome presence.
Ahead the ski trail was making it way to a little stone chapel perched high above us. We could see it had a bell tower and bell. It was called Chapel St Michel. We had a short chat with a French couple who were sheltering in the doorway and we moved on. It was 2pm. The wind was now very strong and cold. The terrain was steep so we put on our full length climbing skins. We chose to follow the top a ridge which led to the Col de Vallon. We were climbing steeply and slowly now but moving continuously. The peaks of Crete des Garioles and Re de la Paria surrounding the Col were like giant sentinels with their sharp pointed crags.
Feeling very tried we arrived at a high point where we could see the route to the Col du Vallon. We estimated that it would take more than an hour to reach this Col. It was now 3:15pm. We had come a little over half the distance and had no idea as to the problems we were to encounter once we crossed the Col du Vallon. The terrain was steep and the navigation had to be precise. At best we may reach the refuge i Re Magi at 7pm - 1 hour in darkness. This was a life and death decision as there was no shelter before the refuge. It was clear we had to turn back. I was concerned that this would also result in a late night but Fitz felt sure we could get back in daylight. We knew all the risks on the return trip and there would be no surprises.
We removes our climbing skins and turned back, this time skiing directly back to the chapel, (checking out an accessable attic in an abandoned refuge as possible emergency shelter on the way) then slide-slipped down the steep slope below the Chapel and on along the Torrent du Vallon river to the walking track. We arrived back at the small town of Nevache at 1730 with 1/2 an hour of daylight remaining.
Asking at a local shop we were directed to the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" where we found dormitory beds for $38 - dinner bed & breakfast. We settled in to a Vin Chaud (hot wine) both of us relieved to be down safely. Dinner was a cheese omellette and garlic potatoes. This was a most enjoyable meal and a little better that we would have had in the attic of the abandoned refuge.
Our revised plan was to start the trip again early tomorrow morning and cross over the Col du Vallon at lunch time. We should then have plenty of time to work through the problems skiing down from the Col du Vallon to the refuge I Re Magi.
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