Day 2 - Back-country ski trip from the village of Nevache to the Col du Vallon

Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22
Saturday Feb 19 Click here for Photo album

 After a good breakfast at the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" we were away at 8:50am heading back up the road to the walking track and upwards. We made good time and were feeling much better after a good sleep, and that I had left some "surplus" gear behind in the Gire (to be collected on Monday) so my pack was lighter.

We reached the top of the main climb in less than an hour and were up a the Chapel St Michel in less than 2 hours. The skies were clear and there was no wind today but we had put on our skins much earlier this time. We made our way passed the abandoned Chalet de Vallon refuge and headed more directly towards the Col du Vallon. Basically following our downwards ski tracks of yesterday. We could also see the faint downhill tracks of a previous ski group and this increased our confidence in our route selection.

We were enclosed by the sawing heights of the peaks of Crete des Garioles to the west and Rechers de la Paria, whose steep yellow/red limestone crags dominated the east side of the Vallee of the Torrent du Vallon. Our route was consistently steep as we traversed across the snow slope. Occasional "booming" sounds on fresh wind blown snow in small gullies reminded us that there was an ice layer beneath our feet and to constantly be aware of avalanche dangers. Fritz reprimanded me for skiing too close behind him as we should be well separated in these conditions. It was my turn to cut the track so I moved to the front.

Ahead we could make out the approximate position of the Col du Vallon. The Tour du Vallon (Tower of Vallon) could clearly be seen but the Col itself was obscured. On reaching the point where we had been forced to turn back yesterday the Col came in to view between the 2858 meter peak, le Recher Blanc, on the west and the impressive 2809 meter tower, the Tour du Vallon, on the east. Our re-estimates of the time from here to the Col was the same as yesterday as the route looked just as steep. The route took us up steeply to a narrow ridge which, surprisingly, lead directly to the Col at a reasonable slope. To our west was a circle of peaks surrounding Lac Blanc, the source of our "Torrent du Vallon". These 2900+ peaks dropped steep slopes to the lake. Fritz decided this was the spot for lunch as we could easily see our route to the Col. It was midday and we were here in good time.

Looking south down the Torrent du Vallon was an impressive view of distant craggy limestone peaks. The highest, was a "Matterhorn like" peak to the south. I have guessed it to be the 4102 meter peak in the south called "Barre des Ecrins". We left this very pleasant and memorable lunch spot and started our climb up to the Col du Vallon. We traversed around and small gully and worked our way on to the fine snow ridge which lead to the Col. Then, finally, we were on the Col du Vallon at 2645 meters. A small concrete plinth about 1 meter high, in a area scoured free of snow, marked the crossing. We took the time to experience such a remote and wild place as this, looking across to Lac Blanc and down the Torrents du Vallon from where we had came. We were satisfied that it was the correct decision to turn back yesterday and to repeat the crossing again today.

Our attention soon turned to the way forward. The Col presented us with a single and challenging prospect. The only way down was a double black run for some 200 meters or so. We didn't even think about removing our climbing skins and proceeded across the stones to the slope and pushed off. The snow was not dry, it was deep and require a definite attitude and angulation to keep our descent under control. we managed to get down the major slope without incident and took our climbing skins off for the remainder of the run. The snow was still heavy but skiing was better and we had a reasonably good run. To exit this valley we had to keep to the east side and pass under some very high and steep slopes coming down from the Tete du Chien. We moved quickly as we were able to follow the "up tracks" of previous skiers.

At the end of this traverse, at 2392 meters the snow condition deteriorated as the temperature dropped. A thick breakable crust developed over a deep layer of heavy fresh snow. The temperature has been around zero for most of the day. Ski-breakthrough-bog-fall became a repeated and frustrating sequence. Crust would break up into the thickness and weight of paving tiles. Impossible to turn. We muddled our was down to better slopes. The beauty of the mountains made up for the lack of skiing thrills. The 3222 meter peak Roche Bernarde and 3153 meter Pointe Balthazar were impressive companions.

At a high point a Christian Cross had been erected and we could see down to some ruined Chalets which we knew to be not far from our destination refuge "i re Magi" (The three Kings - we're in old Italian country now - the French just think it France). From here we reached a well used track down to the river "Ruisseau de Vallee Etrolte". A track junction sign-posted the way to our refuge for the night. (we are to return to this track junction tomorrow on our way to Mt Thabor - Sunday).

The track to i re Magi was well used and all downhill. So the next 2 kms went very quickly and skiing was more relaxed. The refuge i re Magi was in a little village and was a welcome sight. We were greeted by the very friendly Refuge Manager. We showered and changed for dinner, life slowed down and relaxation took over as we drank le vin et la bière. The meal was Italian - anti pasta, etc.

I re Mage was a popular destination and a party of 35 people came up on the (closed) road from the Italian side on skis, snowshoes and some came in to the refuge on a tiny over snow vehicle. They partied late and disappeared sometime during the night. i re Magi has a reputation for good food.

Slept well that night.