Monday April 11 Charters Cathedral and village

Monday April 11 Chartre Cathedral and village

After a day of a needed rest-up I'm all refreshed and off on the early morning train from Gare Montparnasse (this means I have now left Paris from everyone of its main railway station in the City - there are 6 stations). The train was not a TVG but only managed 160kmh according to my GPS. We are very far behind he rest of the world on our public transport in the land of Oz..

Chartres was not a very large city/village, I walked from the station to the Cathedral in about 10 minutes. After checking out what to do I decided I would do the Village walk with an audio guide and return at 14:30 to do the main Cathedral.

I started the walk from the main entrance of the Cathedral and walked around the south side though interesting village streets.Walking past the Canon's house the city wall gates and small clock tower with a 24hour, one had clock. A little audio information about the very famous stain glass windows - I was to listen to an audio on the windows later on in the afternoon.

I then proceeded to the terrace of the Bishop's palace where there was an nice view of the Chartre Town. Then I walked down a long stairway past some very ancient houses and a very old church - Saint Andre collegial church and St Nicolas fountain. Onwards to St Thomas's bridge crossing. the Euro river. Old mills and public washing platforms were pointed out. These were allocated for males on some days then females on other days. In the lower town the river provided a very nice setting the old houses built on the banks and framed by hanging willow branches, the Bouju bridge, and colourful spring blooms in riverside gardens.

We came to a busy village corner where the trail turned and crossed a larger bridge, over a wider branch of the Eure, with some old ruins on either side. An archeological dig was set-up on the far bank with some information signs. The bridge is called the Guilleum (that is: William) Gate Bridge and it was blown up by revengeful German solders as they retreated from the British advance in 1944. There was originally a very large gatehouse with high stone walls.  When I was taking some photos a very old lady shuffled up to me and started talking to me in French insisting that I should take certain photos to capture the importance of the destruction and to emphasis what was there beforehand. She was unconcerned that I could hardly understand her and she dragged me across to a small shop window where there was a collection of old photographs in a frame. It became clear that she was there when the Germans blew up the bridge and that I was very lucky to have this encounter. She was also delighted that the city had been given money to do the archeological research and re-build the old gatehouse.

The loss of culture and history is one of the greatest impacts of the world wars in Europe. WWII caused the greatest loss of life of all wars in human history. Basically big and powerful schoolyard bullies doing their worst to each other and using the simple people and their culture as pawns in their evil games. All the direct civilian bombing done by all sides were direct contraventions of all the "Just War" conventions agreed by all at the time (although the UK did not sign the London Agreement but this omission does means the laws do not apply to them). All these "strategic bombing" "campaigns" and their justification under the cry of "Total War" were war crimes of the highest magnitude and there are many leaders on all sides who should be standing the world court justifying their decisions to use civilians and desperate refugees as tools in their wars.  The politicians who negotiated the Versailles Treat in 1919 are the root course of WWII and nearly all the conflicts since.

From Guilleum's Bridge I walk up the hill passed some beautifully restored old houses, in particular one with an external spiral stairway tower. This staircase was called the Queen Berthe's Staircase. Here I became the curiosity object for some school children who very quickly became very friendly and we conversed in a mix of French and German and they allowed me to take some photos of them. They were very interested in where I came from and how many kilometers I travelled from Australia to get here. They told me that they were out of school on a lunch break and would have to return soon. (Painting of girl added Sept 2011)

I continues down the Flat-Foot stairs back to the river and crossed the Taillard Bridge. There were pretty scene of old riverside buildings and gardens and I re-crossed the river on the Saint-Hilaire bridge to pass the children's school and to briefly visit the Saint-Pierre church with its large flying buttresses and excellent stain glass windows. The  ceiling plaster was falling down and a large net had been suspended underneath to protect people in the church.

A little father up the hill was a smaller church which was also very interesting. The highly decorated ceiling and beautifully painted stain glass windows telling the usual story of the old Testament and the wages of sin. These windows were for the illiterate people to visually "read" the bible as well as to impress them of the importance of the local church leaders at the time.

I continued up Grenet St passing some old houses with interesting brick and stone work facades on the old Citizen's Council Room. Passed the old market place at Billard Square and oldest building called the salmon house because of the fish on the front column.

This was the end of the city walk and I returned to the Chartre Cathedral. I picked up the audio tour of the Cathedral and this mainly deal with the details of al the amazing stain glass windows and who funded the creation of each one. The local weapon makers, the money traders and the shoes makers etc. no doubt guaranteeing them a place in heaven.  The choir stalls were surrounded by panels of intricacy carved picture stories of the life of Christ and Mary of course.

I walked around the inside of the cathedral looking at all the elaborate chapels with many candles burning (2-5 ?? Euros to light a candle - size is important to get the message though)







I got the 5pm train back to Paris and slept all the way.  Luckily Paris was the termination.

I had to finalise my packing for the flight back to Australia on Tuesday.  I had to check Fritz's list to ensure I had watered all the plants and locked up correctly.  Get my overloaded pack and ski equipment thought the Korean Airline weight check proved to be a challenge but a little juggling and some slight of hand got it all through without any extra charge.

Chartre Cathedral and walk through village

Monday April 11 Charters Cathedral and village

After a day need rest-up I'm all refreshed and off on the early morning train from Gare Montparnasse (this means i have now left Paris from everyone of its main railway station in the City - there are 6 stations). The slow train only does a mere 160kmh and I was there is a little over an hour.

Chartres was not a very large city/village, I walked from the station to the Cathedral in about 10 minutes. After checkout what to do I decided I would do the Village walk with an Audio guide and return at 14:30 to do the main Cathedral.

I started the walk from the main entrance of the Cathedral and walked around the south side though interesting village streets.Walking past the Canon's house, the city wall gates and small clock tower with a 24hour, a one hand clock! A little audio information about the very famous stain glass windows - I planned to do an audio tour on the windows in the afternoon.

We (me and my headphones) then proceeded to the terrace of the Bishop's place where there was an nice view of Chartre Town. Then I walked down a long stairway past some very ancient houses and a very old church - Saint Andre collegial church and St Nicolas fountain. Onwards to St Thomas's bridge crossing. the  Eure river. Old mills and public washing platforms were pointed out. These were allocated for males on some days then females on other days. In the lower town the river provided a very nice setting, the old houses built on the banks and framed by hanging willow branches, the Bouju bridge, and colourful spring blooms in riverside gardens.

We came to a busy village corner where the trail turned and crossed a larger bridge, over a wider branch of the Eure, with some old ruins on either side. An archeological dig was set-up on the far bank with some information signs. The bridge is called the Guilleum (that is: William) Gate Bridge and it was blown up by revengeful German solders as they retreated from the British advance in 1944. There was originally a very large gatehouse with high stone walls.  When I was taking some photos a very old lady shuffled up to me and started talking to me in French insisting that I should take certain photos to capture the importance of the destruction and to emphasis what was there beforehand. She was unconcerned that I could hardly understand her and she dragged me across to a small shop window where there was a collection of old photographs in a frame. It became clear that she was there when the Germans blew up the bridge and that I was very lucky to have this encounter. She was also delighted that the city had been given money to do the archeological research and re-build the old gatehouse.

The loss of culture and history is one of the greatest impacts of the world wars in Europe. WWII caused the greatest loss of life of all wars in human history. Basically big and powerful schoolyard bullies doing their worst to each other and using the simple people and their culture as pawns in their evil games. All the direct civilian bombing done by all sides were direct contraventions of all the "Just War" conventions agreed by all at the time (although the UK did not sign the London Agreement but this omission does means the laws do not apply to them). All these "strategic bombing" "campaigns" and their justification under the cry of "Total War" were war crimes of the highest magnitude and there are many leaders on all sides who should be standing the world court justifying their decisions to use civilians and desperate refugees as tools in their wars.  The politicians who negotiated the Versailles Treat in 1919 are the root course of WWII and nearly all the conflicts since.

From Guilleum's Bridge I walk up the hill passed some beautifully restored old houses, in particular one with an external spiral stairway tower. This staircase was called the Queen Berthe's Staircase. Here I became the curiosity object for some school children who very quickly became very friendly and we conversed in a mix of French and German and they allowed me to take some photos of them. They were very interested in where I came from and how many kilometers I travelled from Australia to get here. They told me that they were out of school on a lunch break and would have to return soon.

I continues down the Flat-Foot stairs back to the river and crossed the Taillard Bridge. There were pretty scene of old riverside buildings and gardens and I re-crossed the river on the Saint-Hilaire bridge to pass the children's school and to briefly visit the Saint-Pierre church with its large flying buttresses and excellent stain glass windows. The  ceiling plaster was falling down and a large net had been suspended underneath to protect people in the church.

A little father up the hill was a smaller church which was also very interesting. The highly decorated ceiling and beautifully painted stain glass windows telling the usual story of the old Testament and the wages of sin. These windows were for the illiterate people to visually "read" the bible as well as to impress them of the importance of the local church leaders at the time.

I continued up Grenet St passing some old houses with interesting brick and stone work facades. The old Citizen's Council Room was the best example. I continued past the old market place at Billard Square and oldest building in Chartre called the Salmon House because of the fish on the front column.

This was the end of the city walk and I returned to the Chartre Cathedral. I picked up the audio tour of the Cathedral and this mainly dealt with the details of all the amazing stain glass windows and who funded the creation of each one. The local weapon makers, the money traders and the shoes makers etc. no doubt guaranteeing them a place in heaven.  The choir stalls were surrounded by panels of intricacy carved picture stories of the life of Christ and Mary.

I walked around the inside of the cathedral looking at all the elaborate chapels with many candles burning (2-5 Euros?? to light a candle - size is important to get the message though)

I got the 5pm train back to Paris and slept all the way.  Luckily Paris was the termination.

I had to finalise my packing for the flight back to Australia on Tuesday.  I had to check Fritz's list to ensure I had watered all the plants and locked up correctly.

Getting my overloaded pack and ski equipment thought the Korean Airline weight check proved to be a challenge but a little juggling and some slight of hand got it all through without any extra charge.

Homage to Monet at visit to Giverny

Saturday April 9 Giverny Monet and Bonnard
Check

(click here) my photo album of Monet's garden.

I was going a little soft on Monet as I was saturated in his Water Lilies and Haystacks and his obsessions with light. In the true abstract tradition that you must not be distracted by reality. But after my visit yesterday to the d'Orsay I had got over this softness and was keen to go to see was he was up to in Giverny.

I used my Eurail pass to get out to Vernon and then rented a bicycle to do the trip to Giverny. I got ripped off. There was a big hassle at the bike rental area as many had got off the train and headed straight for the bike shop. Being in the 1st class carriage I got there first and was protecting my allocated bike. The bike looked at a glance like a good mountain bike and I first checked the brakes and they were well adjust so I make a generalized decision that all else was ok and gave up my money. It was the worst bike I have ever ride. It was a 21 speed bike and the rear cluster would not change passed number 3 which meant I was peddling really fast. The back wheel I soon realized was buckled and was rubbing on the brake pads every turn. The seat looked ok but it was hard and hit all the wrong spots.

I rode around the old village of Vernon trying to find the information de tourist to get a map and also buying my lunch and keeping to the RIGHT side of the road. At the deli the shop keeper refuse absolutely to sell me 50 gms of jellied beef and emphasis that the smallest piece she would sell was 250gm. I could have bought my lunch for less. But the jelled beef looked nice (as was) so I parted with my euros. The girl at the tourist office was very pleasant and gave me the map I needed by didn't tell me that there was a nice safe bike track all the way to Monets house. She indicated that I follow the main road. The building this office was in, and all the building beside it, was leaning substantially to the right that they must be close to collapse. But inside the office was fitted out in as a modern office with no concern as to the fact it could all fall down at any moment. (I had noticed this problem in Amsterdam as well)

It was only when I started of the 7 km ride to Monet's house that I began to realize that the bike had problems - there had been too many distractions in the village to pickup any problems as It took me some time to workout how to change the gears by the twisting the handgrip close to the brake. I crossed the bridge over the Seine River and took some photos, then turned right at the round-a-bout and headed along the river flats to Giverny. After a few kilometers a local stopped me and told me that I would be happier of the bike track and indicated when I could join it. The cars whizzing past me had been worrying but French driver are very good and always consider bike riders. I was always aware that drivers were slowing and give me (and any other bike rider) space.



The bike track was a much more pleasant ride and I was able to look at the houses as I went by and to watch tradesmen working on roofing tiles etc. The village on Giverny was a simple street village with the church on the high point.

There were only three things to do in Giverny: Monet's garden, the Impressionist gallery and Monets grave. I stopped in front of Monet's house and saw the long queue of tourist (I'm not one of them of course) so I stopped by a park bench and ate my expensive lunch. When I joined the queue is was very short (the tourist were all at the very expensive restaurant) and I got in straight away.

The entrance was though a small side cottage and not the main house. It contain the essential Museum Shop to get even more money out of the tourist pockets, I often wondered why they even charge admission at Museums but then they know there are mean spend-thrifts like me and they can't let them though the door for nothing.

On exiting this little building I was "hit" with the garden.

It was an incredible sight which just got better and better as I walked through it. I was stunned. I have never seen flowers as big and as colourful as these here. Very large flowers of every colour planted carefully beside other colourful small flowers of suitable close or contrasting colours. Monet planted this garden as if it was a painting. I continually took photos to tried and capture this contrast.

The little paths guided me to an under-pass. A railway, and then a road, had been build through the centre of Monet's garden many years ago - clearly the village planning bureaucrats had no idea of the value they were trashing. This took us under the road to the waterways and lake which Monet constructed to make his Japanese bridge and water lily garden.

This was truly a wonderful place. Each turn of the track gave yet another vista to glimpse this bridge (a reconstruction and not the original bridge we were told) across the lake with the willow trees hanging branches and leaves partially obscuring the green bridge. An enormous amount of coloured blooms were arranged around us as if a huge painting brush was swooping down and splashing colour in all the right places.

I'm running out of words and I have put up a photo album of the garden at the top of this post.

It was clear the Monet was not poor in his time as the house was well appoint with a very nice wood burning iron kitchen stove and oven. The utensils were all copper and the house generally would have been very comfortable to live in. The views across to the Seine River were very pleasing and restful. Entertainment at this time of the year would have been most enjoyable.

I left the house dazed with colour and rode back along the street to the Impressionist gallery to see the Pierre Bonnard exhibition. This was a prize for me as I have always admired Bonnard and have come to think that he had found the right point between representation and abstraction. I was to now look at 80 of his work be did while living in Vernon as a close friend of Monet and the usual crowd of impressionist artist of the time.

His 1930 'Self Portrait" --- great

1920 'The Head of a Woman' --- great

1924 'Reflecting on the day'



1913 'Standing nude from behind' --- great painting

1939 'Terrace at Vernon' --- one of a number of great landscapes










1920 'The Balcony at Vernonet'

Other great painting which I have not yet got images were:

1916 'The Lunch'

1915 'Nude before Mirror'

1925 'Nude at her bath'

Audio commentary quote: "Bonnard's start his painting in a space that is already abstract"
Bonnard would do his initial painting from a model and then complete the painting from his memory!!

I bought a same English language book on Bonnard at the Museum shop and the Bonnard images above are photographed from this book as they wouldn't let me take photos in the gallery.

I slowly rode back to Vernon giving unnecessary thought time to how I was going to get a refund from the guy who had rented me this bike. I had to get the train at 6pm and rode around looking at the bridge gatehouse which was a four-tower cluster with slate conical rooves. The remain of the old bridge stone work stretched out across a narrow channel of the Seine to an island and the section over the main river channel was gone completely.

I rode around the Vernonet section of the village of Vernon and explored the narrow street and alley ways. I came across a tavern where there were men playing the French bowling game of Petanque. This is played with 8 Steel Boules in a set. A small plastic 'jack' is thrown out on the ground, which can be anywhere that is basically flat, it doesn't seem to matter if the are plants and trees about. It all works out. The steel balls are them thrown (not bowled) towards the jack with a carefully crafted 'back-spin'. The thrower does this so when the steel ball hit the ground they don't roll quickly forward but slow and go to the right or left depending on the thrower's spin. They have to get closest to the jack (as in our bowls) and may knock opponent's ball out of the way. It is always watched by spectators giving unwanted advice. A few minutes of entertainment for me to watch real pub culture in action.

I rode back across the Seine bridge and thought the main village, where I bought a very nice pistachio ice cream, very nice after a long ride. I then took my bike back to the bike shop and tried to make my point with the man. He tried to trivialised my complaint and when I loudly pointed out the problem he immediately disappeared. Another shop person arrived and I try to tackle the problem with him and he denied that there anything wrong with the bike (language is no problem here - its all gesture and noises). Finally the original guy returned with my deposit and tried to avoid the problem. The only support I got was from the crown around but the bike men keep up the pretense of 'being too busy'. I gave up of course.

The train came and it was nice to have first case seats to escape into sleep for an hour. I woke with a start thinking I had gone passed my station but Paris was the termination of course. I returned to the Ile St Louis by the now very familiar metro.

Return to the Musee d'Orsay

Friday, April 8 - Paris
I arrived in Paris at about 9:30 and got to Ile St Louis at about 10:30. After a short break, I headed off by the metro to the d'Orsay Gallery for a second visit.

By a stroke of luck, an exhibition of Manet had just opened and I paid a minuscule 2 euro supplement to see it.

The Manet exhibition was really good. Many of the old favorites, Olympia, Berthe Morisot. I was disappointed to see only a preliminary painted sketch of the "Gare Saint-Lazare" the real painting is still in Washington. Likewise, Manet's great work, the "Girl behind the bar at the Folies-Bergere" was still in London. I would have hoped, for an exhibition of this size, that they would have been included. It was great looking at the brush strokes and following Manet's development as an artist fighting the critics all the way. I was surprised at how hard he tried to please them.
The main d'Orsay gallery still has a huge collection of his work.

The main d'Orsay gallery is really the major impressionist gallery. It has, I believe, all the best of Monet's paintings. The Japanese bridge, the water lilies, and the Rohan Cathedral (x 4) plus many others. I know I raved over the water lilies in the Orangerie gallery but I've changed my mind. The d'Orsay wins. But I still stand by my comment on the Mammottan it has all Manet's practice paintings.

The same applies to the other impressionist d'Orsay who have the best of Renoir and Degas plus Cezanne, Bonnard, and the others. I found myself re-visiting rooms to see the paintings again. Renoir's "Dancing at the Moulin de la Galette" is breathtaking.

the d'Orsay has a decorative art collection and the room which impressed the most was a complete reconstruction of a furnished room in Art Nouvelle woodworking.

I left the gallery at about 6pm and looked for a restaurant. After trying the top restaurant in the d'Orsay and a few others on the way home, I couldn't find a menu with a decent-sized helping and a reasonable price. So I pick up some veges etc and walked back to the Ile St Louis and cooked my own dinner.

Modernism and Old Masters

Wednesday April 6 Berlin
My plan today was to go to the Potsdamer Place area and I decided to get the metro to the Tiergarten and walk through the gardens to the Bauhauz Museum.

The garden were all being prepared for spring and workmen were planting large bulb plants along the bordher of the gardens. The walk took me along the river Spree and I passed a lock for river shipping to pass. Spring forts were starting to appear and daffodils and a variety of small flowered plants were showing some colour. The track was heavily used by cyclists and I had to be very careful. It was a very pleasant interlude.

The Bauhaus Museum was extremely interesting. I was here to push my understanding of modernism. I found their description of the Bauhaus teaching methods very good. Students had first to learn how to use their respective media. To understand colour and how to mix oil paints. How to blow glass. How to work with metals. Form follows function and Jean Miro's idea of shape & colour. So many of the simplest household items and furniture were first conceived in the Bauhaus. Chairs and light fittings. Things that we today regard as ordinary. It was a great movement and other art centres should follow the example. Ku-ring-gai art centre has all the courses correct they could easily present them under a philosophical Bauhaus cover sheet. I'll have to talk to them. There are some great wordings they could use.

I walked towards Potsdamm to the Gemaldegalerie of old masters. This was a wonderful gallery and I stayed until it closed at 18:00. This ment that I could not go the the New National Gallery.

I check my guide and found that the Jewish museum was open until 20:00 and jumped on the M41 bus to get there fast. It was impressive architecture but the stories make me so sad and depressed about our humanity that I had to move quickly through some sections. I walked through the garden of concrete towers. The shape of the building made it very hard to navigate (maybe that is the main point - confusion - where do I go next - I'm not in control of myself). They have put little arrows on the floor as a guide.

The M41 bus took me straight back to the hostel (via a long tunnel ?). I had a simple meal as my meal last night will last me a number of days.

Travels in the modern art of Berlin

Tuesday April 5 Berlin
Today the museums are all open it is going to be a big day. I got away 20 minutes behind schedule and was off on the S ban for Hackescher Market station. My plan to go straight to the main Alte National Gallery and I finished up spending more than 3 hours covering all the floors. It was another excellent gallery. I went straight to the impressionists on floor 2. It was an excellent showing of many paintings which I was not familiar. An excellent Manet and Renoir. German painters of personal note were Carl Spitzweg and Max Liebermann. See following notes (if I get time).

I now had to revise my plan to go to the Bauhaus for the afternoon so plan B was the museums in Challotteburg. They were all in the same street and I would be able to do them efficiently.

Back on the S ban to Charlottenburg then changed to Richard-Wagner place. A short walk and I was at the museums. The first was the Brohan museum which was featuring Art Nouveau art, furniture, porcelain & beware. I'm trying to extend my appreciation of modernism. The wooden furniture by Ruhlmann & Enduring van de Else were very good and so was the porcelain and steel tableware. I found the painting very good. I will have to research the artist: Jean Lurcat, Mart Hagemeister, Emile Claus, Theo van Rysselberghe, Leon de Smet, George Lemmen, Xavier Mellery, Maris Slavona & Willy Jackel. Their degree of abstraction is about where I would like to be in my work.

The next museum was The Berggruen museum. This had been a private collection of Picasso, Martese, and Klee. Found it very interesting and it extended my knowledge of their philosophies.

Across the road was the third museum Scarf Gerstenberg. and that was concerned with the surrealist. Salvidor Dali, Klee, Max Ernst featured. I'm always interested in surrealism but it is not my main interest.

They kicked me me out at 6pm and I walked down to the shopping centre at bought a meal - a huge pork knuckle, potatoes, sourcrout and purayed brocelle. It was far too much. At 10:30 euros it was excellent value. By the time I finished the meal it was dark and I made my way back across the city on the metro to the hostel.

Learning the history of Germany

Monday April 4 Berlin

It's Monday and most of the museums are closed so I use my Berlin Welcome card to get a discount in the German History museum and spent the whole day learning German history from the Celts though various kings and despots, to Napoleon and then the 1st and 2nd world wars. I missed out on the last few rooms on post war industrialization. Extremely interesting.

Map of Berlin walk on Sunday April 3

Walk around old Berlin April 3

Sunday April 3 Berlin.

I got the 9:04 from Dresden to Berlin arriving at Berlin on-time at 10:14. I immediately bought all the maps and guides at the tourist office. I also bought a combined 3 day museum and 5 day all transport pass for 52 euros. 3 museums and 2 ride/day will break even. I then walked to the hostel and dumped my gear. I was on the streets at noon.

The first thing I now do in a new city is to get to know it. So I caught the metro from the hbf to the Markisches Museum station. Here I started a self-guided walk through the old area of Berlin and the churches which defined the original communities. There were 2 cities originally, Berlin on one side of the river Spree and Colln on the other. Industry and trade were based around a river port and a mill. When they decided to construct a bridge the became the city of Berlin. The most important church in the area was the St Nikolai Church and I could see its two steeples all the time during the walk. The area is called Nikolai Quarter. We traced a depressing route around some ancient and bombed out churches. We passed the old parliament house and the old mint. Getting back to the Spree river again we entered the grounds of St Nikolai. Almost all of the buildings here have been rebuilt retaining the small shops and cafes. This was a truly delightful place. The restaurants with their umbrellas lined along the river bank (wall) and spring colours starting to show. All the Berliners were out enjoying the Sunday in the spring sun.
Crossing the Spree again to an island where there were many important buildings built over many years. This island is called the museum island as there are 5 very large museums built on it. A number are still undergoing extensive repairs.

After 65 years Berlin is still a reconstruction site with large holes and big cranes all over the city. Some individual projects are said to 1 billion euro. The amount of money the tourists are pouring into these cities I'm sure they will get the money back.

I continued along Unter den Linten Boulevard, which was the horse trail for the Kings to ride to their hunting grounds in the Tiergarten, to Bebelplatz where the Nazis book burning took place. I believe that this was where the Berlin opera house was (now call the State Opera) located. When Churchill bombed this Hitler retaliated by bombing London and Covientry. I walked on 1 km or so to the very famous Bradenberg Gate. The Boulevard was full of tourists and there were many restaurants. There was an excellent guitar player drawing a large crowd. It was late in the day and I hope the photos are ok. Particularly the one of myself.

Although there were a large number of people on the street all the side roads were completely empty. Together with construction going on at every turn this gave the city-scape a surreal and artificial feel. I could have been on a movie set.

After sitting and studying the gate for a while I felt it was time to find food. It was not the best place to look as it was one huge tourist trap. I got the U Ban back to the hostel and I had to settle for some take-a-way. I negotiated some steamed fish with onions and fried potatoes. Not the best meal I have had.

My hotel room was now filled with its quota of 4 and I set myself up in the lobbie cuddled up to a spare power point for a few hours.

Dresden - Friday April 1

Friday April 01
I was up early and after a short breakfast was off & running for the 8:31 am train to Dresden. I got in the 1st class carriage and set myself up for the 2 hour trip down great  Elbe river to Dresden. It as good to do this section of the river twice (coming & going to/from Prague) as the river scenery was superb. I was unable the spend all my Czech Money so I bought a coffee & chips on the train to get rid of the money.

The train arrived on time and I walked to the Cityherberge, dumped my big pack and was off to the Alte Masters Art Gallery before midday.  The hostel was well positioned and I could walk to all sites.  I first brought a museum pass for 22 euros.  

The Old Masters Gallery was quiet a surprise as an astute gallery director moved all the art work out of Dresden a few months before the bombing, hence they are all here today for me to see. Some famous local artists lost all their work.

I was not allowed to take photos and I took copious notes (at the end of this post) Excellent 16 c work by Cranach & Bottticelli and more.  The quality of the works were high and the restoration skills of the conservators were impressive. The Dutch painters were prominent including Steen, Vermeer, Durer, Rubens, Bol, Rembrandt and Van Dyck.
 I was thrilled to see Giorgoine 'The Sleeping Venice' which provided so much inspiration for later artists (eg Manet). There were more Italian artist as Velazquez and some Spanish El Greco.

After 3 hours I had finished this gallery I  headed off to the New Masters Gallery across the city. 10 minute walk.

Looking at the city of Dresden it has been truly amazing how they have repaired the major buildings and old streets is very impressive. There were many groups who took responsibility for each building in particular the churches. Entire buildings and streetscapes have been rebuilt to the old specifications. Artists and craftsmen have worked hard. Most of the work has been done since 1990. Churchill has a lot to answer for. The Geneva convention makes it clear that the deliberate targeting of civilians is a war crime. After the bombing of Dresden Churchill never would discuss the bombing. He knew what he had done.

Back to the gallery.  This gallery was also good and they had some very early 16c works and these were the earliest paintings that I have seen that bring design elements to importance in the composition. Carl Gustav Caris was the most important artist in 18c in this respect.   Whereas a good representation of French impressionists and the German painter Max Leberman got me interested. Max Slevogt was good and I'll research him more home. Others are in my notes. After this point in the gallery the link to representation in the subsequent painting displayed was completely severed and I lost the plot. I kept some notes.

FOOD became very important as I missed lunch and only had a quick breakfast in Prague. As it was late I found a small street restaurant and had a beer and chicken in a spicy sauce.

Prague - The Prague Castle area, Charles bridge and old city walk

Prague Tuesday March 29
The train from Amsterdam was half an hour late so we active at Prague Central at 10am. I immediately got a new city map and quickly picked up that they prefer their own money in stead of euro. Many places take euros.
Got 1000 Kcs at the atm and was off to find the hostel. AS there in 15 minutes. It was called Hostel Elf and yes all the walls were various hues of pink and there were selfish drawings everywhere. It turned at to be a very nice hostel.
Put my pack in my 'private' room (Prague is less than half the cost so I splurged) and headed off to the Prague Castle.
Bus to the bridge across the Vltava river and then up the hill (with at least 1000 tourists). I brought a 'seniors' ticket to do the full tour and I was off running.

Summary
Old royal palace
The story of the Prague castle
St George Basilica
picture gallery

Then it was 4pm and everything suddenly shut. I was sure I had to 6pm but it seems that it is still winter and in April they will open to 6pm I was told. Major change of plans! I decided that as I had 2 hours of daylight I would walk back to the hostel though the city and get a good idea as to what I should do for the next few days.

I headed down the hill again to the Church of St Nicholas to find it also shut at 4pm. Do on to the famous Charles bridge. The narrow windy streets were packed with tourists and most were teenage school children. So I had to be a little assertive at times.
Charles Bridge was very impressive and every vertical bridge post had a huge statue on it so if look like an outdoor art gallery. The bridge was packed with tourist and there were a large number of street artists plying their wares. Quick sketch portrait artists were everywhere.

I followed a narrow street called Karlova street. A nice little restaurant decorated with planter boxes filled flowers took up half the width. Little tourist shops selling crystal wares, amber jewellery, toys and Russian fur hats were doing a great trade. I passed many amazing buildings and churches and I photographed them as the lighting was favourable.
I could see where I would have to spend most of my next few days.

I made my way back to the hostel and went straight to a restaurant recommended by the hostel. I ordered chicken breast with saurcraut and a beer. All came to 8 euros. Hardly worthwhile cooking my own meals.
The Castle ticket was for 2 days and I will pick up where I left off tomorrow.

Understanding Van Gogh

VAN GOGH MUSEUM z
Sunday March 27
Photography was forbidden so I had to take notes. So this will be of no interest to anyone else but me.

Van Gogh - Influences
Leon Lhermitte
'Haymaking' 1887
Well drafted group of figures in a sweeping S composition. Following 3 generations. very good 3D and loose brushstrokes.

Jean-Francis Millet of the Barbizon school

Dupe - landscapes

Antonio Mauve. 1838-88
'Woodcutters'
(Note: Very similar to a Tom Roberts painting )
Theodule Ribot 1823-91
'A kitchen boy' (also similar to the Tom Roberts painting
'Gold panning').
Jules Breton of the Barbizon school.
'Young peasant girl with a hoe'
A very nice composition - the diagonal of the hoe - the face - the bare foot.

At this point there was an announcement that an English language free guide was to start for the "Picasso in Paris" special exhibition. I was there in a flash.

I knew this Picasso exhibition was on and I was keen to do it. In my study of Picasso in Barcelona I learnt that he was a very good representational portrait painter and it was his time in Paris that moved him towards abstraction. This special exhibition followed his development. It was very instructional.

At the end I had a chat to the guide and she was of the opinion that Picasso should have stopped his move to the abstract earlier. In other words he went too far. Interesting eh! A painting Picasso did called 'De Moulin de la Galette' (remember Renoir!) Was the time he should have stopped and consolidated his move towards abstraction.

Again, back in Barcelona, Joan Miro refused all invitations to join the Spanish abstractionist group as he believed very strongly that a link to representation was necessary to have strong and powerful meaning in a painting.

Back to VG's time at Nuenen
'Head of a woman with head hanging down' 1885
'Head of an old woman's 1885
'Portrait of an old man' 1885
Very good! Clear brush stoke colour & tone, strong statement .
'The potato eaters' 1885
'Head of an old woman' 1885

PARIS 1886-7
'Square at St Pierre'
Influenced by Serat's pointalism.

ARLES 1888-9
'The pink orchard' 1888
'Sunflower'
'The harvest' very nice!
'A pair of leather shoes'

ST REMI 1889
'The garden of St Paul's hospital'
VG copied the paintings of Millet.
After Millet:
'Shearing sheep' (After Millet 'The sheep shearer')
'peasant woman binding sheaves'
'The night' 1889

AUVERS 1890
'Undergrowth' 1889
'Landscape at twilight'
Very subtle colours & dramatic lighting with NO shadows.

LEVEL 1 - MONTMARTRE
Posters, menus & small publications.
Toulouse-Laurel
Steinler
Henry Riviere
George Auroi
Edourard Vuillard
Pierre Bonnard

DAUBIGNY & MONET
Daubigny is of the Barbizon school.
Monet
'View of Prince Hendrickbade Amsterdam'
Painted in one short session on a canvas prepared with the background blue colour.

Daubigny
'Sunset near Villenelle' 2 paintings.

LEVEL 2 - WATERCOLOURS
Louis Anquetin
'Conversation time'
Toulouse-Lautrec
Steinlon
Maris Denis 1870-1945
George Lemmen 1865-1945

PREDECESSORS & CONTEMPORARIES
Anton Mauve
'Self portrait'
Jean Millet. 1847-9
'Study of the head its bearded man'
'Le depart pour le travail' 1850-1
'Woman carding wool' 1855

SYMBOLISME
Emile Bernard
Maurice Davis
'Two sisters' 1891

THE YELLOW HUT
Vittorio Matteo Coreos
'Contemplation' 1889
Face is very good, background & chair lighting good as compositional support.

Emile Bernard
'Boy sitting on grass'
'Grandmother'
View of pont Aven'

Gauguin 1888
'Portrait of van Gogh'
Camille Pissario
Manet
Monet
Cezanne
Renoir
'Young woman sitting in a garden'
Sisley
Pierre Bonnard
Van Gogh
'The Zouoaf' (De Zowave)

Rijkmuseum Saturday March 26

Saturday March 26
Got up early and headed straight to the RIJKSMUSEUM. Walked passed the other 2 museums on the way. It will be very important to get to the Van Gogh museum early on Sunday as the lines are long.

The first thing that you notice in Amsterdam is the huge number of cyclists. When I cross the road I first have to check the cycle track both directions, then I have to check for cars on the left, then there are the tram tracks to check in both directions. Then there are cars again,this time on the right. Finally there are the bikes again, both directions of course. Now you're safely on the other foot path. Make sure you keep to the right ok and don't stray onto the bike track!


The Rijkmuseum is also a history museum and there was very interesting displays on the Dutch East India company. The Asian influence in woodwork and the Chinese influence in the development of the dutch pottery industry.

The enormous wealth sucked out of their Asian colonies funded all this opulence.

Each 'suburb' of Amsterdam were separate states and each had its own militia. When I went the the painting section these militias would pay artist to paint huge paintings of them all. Each individual paying the artist to be included in the large painting.

I was not allowed to take photos in the gallery do I took notes.

Hendrick Overcame 1609
'Winter landscape with shadows'
Gerald von Hontmorst 1623
'The Merry Fiddler'
(inspired by Caravagio)

Ferdinand van Dyck
'Still life with cheese'
textures with lighting.

Willem Claesz Heda
'Still life with gilded goblet' 1635
Textures and lightin - glass.

Frsnz Hals 1632
'Portrait of a man Nick Haaelar'
Loose style -
'Wedding portrait of Isaac Abrahamsz' 1622
interesting.

Compare Hals to Varsponck 1644.
'Portrait of van Adrian Cross'
Precise details

Room 8 Early Rembrandt
'Jeremia'
Use of scraching off paint for edges of cloth and hair - lighting & strong contrast.
'Self portrait' 1628
tone, scratched hair mood.
'Portrait of van Maria Trip'
Transparent lace and skin colour. Pearls & shadows, gold thread.
Much of this painting would have been done by students as of is not in Rembrandt's loose style.
'self Portraits' 1633
College, thick paint without detail. Hands.
Very subtle tones in black cloth & cuffs to define sleaves.
detail in eyes, particularly the red dots in the lower lids.

Rembrandt vs Lievens
R was influenced by Hercules Seagar's landscapes
R
"The store bridge" 1638
Landscape good light & textures

R vs Bar. van der Helst.

Red colouring was made from crushed lice in South America. Lice live in cactus and 1 hectare can produce 3-400 liquid base. The Indigo plant produced the colours black & dark blue.

Helst 1642
"Portrait of Gerard Becker".
Use of charcoal and the lacework.

Plus Morcelse 1630
"A shepherdess"
Cloth edges, lips & expression.

Aert van der Neer
"River view by moonlight"
Wonderful lighting & shadows on the road with horse & cart.
ROOM 9
Jacob van Ruisdael
"Landscape with waterfall"
Highlight on turbulent water distant light under the trees in the hillside.
Philips Konich
"Distant view with cottage lining road"
Loose painting style achieving reflection & tone.
R
"Isaac & Rebecca" 1645
The best!
A very loose painting with large 'globes' of yellow highlighting the brocade gold sleeve. The form of the hand & reflected colour. This painting has been damaged & has been changed. The man's hat was painted on in 1930? Part of the background are missing as it was a larger format.
R
"Titus van Ruin" (son)
Face & fabric.

Geldon (R's pupil)
"King David"
Shows R's loose style.

R
"Amsterdam drapes guild"
3D table & book.

Jan van de Capelle
"The home fleet salutes the state barg"
Reflection tone & clouds

Jan Davidsz de Heen
"Festoon of fruit & flowers"

Ferdinand Bols 1669
"Self portrait"
ROOM 10 VERMEER.
Steen - many very good.

Peter van de Hooch
"Woman with chili in pantry"
Lighting of view through door and low window. Portrait of after looking on scene.

Vermeer
"Kitchen maid"
Reflected light.
"The little street"
3D distance - camera obcurera used

Gerald Don
"Painter with lips & book"
"Night school"
Lighting & candle.

ROOM 11 STEEN
Willem van de Velte II
Ship scenery.

ROOM 12
"Nightwatch"
Loose style, 3D forearm & hand. Thumbs & hands.
left side of painting cut off!

Den Haag art galleries

Saturday March 26
Got up early and headed straight to the RIJKSMUSEUM. Walked passed the other 2 museums on the way. It will be very important to get to the Van Gogh museum early on Sunday as the lines are long.

The Rijkmuseum is also a history museum and there was very interesting displays on the Dutch East India company. The Asian influence in woodwork and the Chinese influence in the development of the dutch pottery industry.

Guade's Parc Guell project and the Joan Miro gallery

Saturday March 19
Guade's Parc Guell project and the Joan Miro gallery

Luckily I decided early to take a 4th day in Barcelona as I now was able to fill in the last day with left-over visits. I just could not achieve my plan for each day. I found myself get extremely tired as the end of each day. I walked huge distances.

Patch Guell I found to be best served by bus 24 which had a stop front of my Hostel. Such as convenient place.

This Park is on the low hills a little west of the main city but it is still in the suburbs.

Guade built this park as commissioned work by the Developer Guell and is yet another of his masterful creations. I got off the bus at the high entrance to the park and walked down to the main entrance. I was able to see his design of the walkway bridges and covered ways in full detail.

I descend to great suspended plaza which is surrounded by Guade 's archetype balustrades and ornamentation. His use of brightly coloured broken tile pieces set into the concrete to form a variety of patterns and designs were very stunning.

Moving down the stairways on either side of the plaza you moved under the plaza and into a cavernous area where large columns are supporting the plaza above. These columns are all done in Guade's bio-mimicking style and the column rise into the roof there tree-like branches forming into arches and support for design on the ceilings. Large medallions covered by this broken tile colouring. It was an awesome place.

The steps lead further down to the entrance gate and beside me were large broken tile, concrete and stone statues of lizards and frogs. Their mouths spilling out water into small ponds in front of then as part of a fountain structure descending with the stairway. At the bottom were two entrance buildings which could only be described as "cute" in the context of their surroundings.

Walking back up to the plaza I was passing a number of street vendors, whom I usually avoid by keeping my transfixed on the distant, when colourful plaster cast of Guade's lizards caught my eye.  The skilled vendor immediately responded and offered me a handful of other objects. I took no notice and pointer to the lizard an request a price. 10 Euros was the quick response. 4 Euro I said. Pause, I showed disinterest, he claimed impossible price. 7 Euro best price! 6 Euro! Done. So I bought my first souvenir. It should find its place happily amongst the other animals statues beside our front pond. (Must think up some Guadean addition to that pond - mmm).
I left the Park Guell and got the metro all the way across Barcelona to the Miro Gallery. Walk 650 meter to
Vallcarca Metro Station Stop ID: 331 Subway L3 Subway direction: Zona Universitària  (12 mins, 9 stops) to Metro stop Paral·lel ID: 322 Walk to Fundaciò Mirò about 16 mins (1.1 km).
I learnt a lot about Miro, in particular that he decided early in his career that he need to learn how to draw (for and abstract painter that is a very significant decision which may who paint abstract would never consider as necessary - I'm convinced it is necessary) and later he refused to join the Spanish abstract society and he insisted that a painting required a connection with reality to make its point. Miro developed a symbolic language of his own which you have to know in order to understand his paintings. It was a worthwhile visit and something I had always wanted to do. It help to clarify my wondering along the line from representational to the abstract.
Saw some buskers on the train on the way back to the hostel and I took their photo assuming I would be committee to pay them. They got of the train before I had time to offer them money???
I did not have to walk back to the metro as i found a cable car close by the gallery which took the metro tickets and went directly to the metro station. An easy end to a long day.

A day with Guade

Friday March 18
All about Guade.

My plan is getting tight as l keep overestimating my walks. Luckily I moved my train back to Paris to Sunday. Giving me 4 days instead of 3.

Today I planned to do Guade's Sagrade Familia Cathedral and the Parc Guell. Of course I did not make it to the Parc Guell and will have to it on another day.

I got the Metro direct to Sagrade Familia. After I got over the initial shock of actually seeing the structure I became concerned at how long the queue was. I circled the site and the queue was now 50 meters longer. I decided that I could not miss this visit and waited on the queue for 30 minutes. It was really worth the time.

This rates as the most amazing building that I have yet seen.



The outside was impressive enough, the geometry, the size, the textures, the statues and their placing and stories. The inside was absolutely awe inspiring.
The cartenary arches gave an allusion of incredible height. The dendrobic bifracating columns with their large decorated tree nodes gave credibility to their strength. The self-supporting hyperboloid domes above the columns with their decorative medallions were magnificent. As were the vast number of columns with their different colored rock signifying different meanings.

The sanctuary lighting was enhanced by a clever design involving all the stain glass window's graduated colouring and the direction of the sun.
In the centre, above the alter was a modernist statue of the crucified Christ with Mary and Joseph in the naves at the points of a geometric golden triangle.

There was an extensive museum in the crypt/basement containing many of Guade's structural models which I spent much time examining. I bought some books of course.

After leaving the Cathedral I walked up the Avenue of Guade to the Hospital fe Sant Pau, having lunch on the Avenue. The hospital was designed by Montaner. I took some photos and Decided it was too late to go to Parc Guell as I could not find the bus stop (I was given the wrong bus number by a well meaning fellow traveller at the hostel).
A major reshedule meant I got the Metro directly right across the city to the museum of contemporary art (MNAC) and the gallery of Joan Miro. The MNAC was much better than I was expecting so I spent all my time there studying Catalonian art. There were many impressive paintings from early 14th c to modern times. My photo notes will be the only way these can be shown.

I arrived back at the hostel very tired and had a Tapas dinner in The Rambles. Not as good as the previous night.