Tuesday Feb 22
We arrived at the Gare Asterlitz at 7:30 am then walked back home to the I'le St Louis. I spent the morning resting and organising photo and writing. I have booked the overnight trains to Nice for our next ski trip when we were in Biancon, I also needed to give some thought to my Barcelona trip.
In the afternoon I went out shopping for food and did a quick walk around the island.
Wednesday Feb 23
I had to return the Avalanche beacon (called ARVA's in France) to the shop "La Haute Route" 33 Boulevard Henry IV. Hence I decide to include a walk to the Bastille and learn about all that "storming" that went on there.
I found the shop ok and returned the ARVA and tried to get a goretex patch kit to repair Fritz's pack (my ski bindings had put a hole in the pack he lent me). They sent me to "Vieux Campeur at 48 rue des Escoles. This was just across the Seine and in the Latin Quarter of the city (so called because it is the university are and long ago all teaching was done in Latin and everyone in this area spoke in Latin). But first i was now on my way to the Bastille. The Bastille was a great fortress which became a prison and the old plan is marked out in cobble stone around the Place de la Bastille. The prison was not a popular place and was to focus of the revolutionaries in July 1789. The current column was built 50 year later to commemorate and record the name of those who died in the storming.
I walked back down Boulevard Henry IV across the river and found the Veux Campeur shop and got the repair kit. Makes me feel a bit happier. Returned to the I'le St Louis and am beginning to feel comfortable around the city.
Thursday Feb 24
Set out to do make a start on the biggest project - the Louvre. I had previously check out the Louvre and got the necessary maps. I planned, and completed, to do the 1st floor only - the old masters from the 14th C to the 17th C. It was hard work and I had to control my time carefully.
Following the development of detailed painting and design of mainly religious subjects. (The cost of paint was prohibitive and these were all commissioned art). To greater understanding of drafting the human body and much later understanding perspective. The colours improved in the 17th C and design became more important. By the 18th C there was much of the beginning of impressionism. (update more later)
I was able to photograph all the paintings and notes (in French!!) I found interesting. I will publish these in my photo album on filsonplace.com (soon)
This floor took me all day to cover.
Friday Feb 25
I planned a big day. First I wanted to see the important sites on the I'le de la l'Cite. The other big cathedral - St Chapelle, The Palias de Justice and the Conciergerie. These 3 took all day and I had to revise my plans. I also bought a 4 day Musee Pass It was very cost effective and by the end of the day I was 20 euro ahead).
Saturday Feb 26
Back to the Louvre to do the 2nd Floor - Flemish, Dutch, German and a huge section of French paints all covering the period 14th C to 18th C.
Again,I was able to photograph all the paintings and notes (in French!!) I found interesting and will publish these in my photo album on filsonplace.com (soon)
Click here to link to Louvre 2nd floor photo notes
Sunday Feb 27
I set off to do the Arc de Triomphe and Tour de Eiffel to get the best out of my 4 day Musee pass
Standing on top these huge monuments was amazing. Paris has been "height restricted" to maintain the old character of the city and being so high above gave me the same aerial perspective as the first scene of the movie Moulin Rouge. I felt I could zoom down into the streets of Paris. I squeezed in two more Mussees - A science Museum in the Grand Palace - which is a great science learning centre for kids, and the Petit Palace where I saw some nice Monet and Cezanne paintings.
I managed to master the Metro today.
Monday, February 28, 2011
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Storming the Bastille
Wednesday Feb 23
I had to return the Avalanche beacon (called ARVA's in France) to the shop "La Haute Route" 33 Boulevard Henry IV. Hence I decide to include a walk to the Bastille and learn about all that "storming" that went on there.
I found the shop ok and returned the ARVA and tried to get a goretex patch kit to repair Fritz's pack (my ski bindings had put a hole in the pack he lent me). They sent me to "Vieux Campeur at 48 rue des Escoles. This was just across the Seine and in the Latin Quarter of the city (so called because it is the university are and long ago all teaching was done in Latin and everyone in this area spoke in Latin). But first i was now on my way to the Bastille. The Bastille was a great fortress which became a prison and the old plan is marked out in cobble stone around the Place de la Bastille. The prison was not a popular place and was to focus of the revolutionaries in July 1789. The current column was built 50 year later to commemorate and record the name of those who died in the storming.
I walked back down Boulevard Henry IV across the river and found the Veux Campeur shop and got the repair kit. Makes me feel a bit happier. Returned to the I'le St Louis and am beginning to feel comfortable around the city.
I had to return the Avalanche beacon (called ARVA's in France) to the shop "La Haute Route" 33 Boulevard Henry IV. Hence I decide to include a walk to the Bastille and learn about all that "storming" that went on there.
I found the shop ok and returned the ARVA and tried to get a goretex patch kit to repair Fritz's pack (my ski bindings had put a hole in the pack he lent me). They sent me to "Vieux Campeur at 48 rue des Escoles. This was just across the Seine and in the Latin Quarter of the city (so called because it is the university are and long ago all teaching was done in Latin and everyone in this area spoke in Latin). But first i was now on my way to the Bastille. The Bastille was a great fortress which became a prison and the old plan is marked out in cobble stone around the Place de la Bastille. The prison was not a popular place and was to focus of the revolutionaries in July 1789. The current column was built 50 year later to commemorate and record the name of those who died in the storming.
I walked back down Boulevard Henry IV across the river and found the Veux Campeur shop and got the repair kit. Makes me feel a bit happier. Returned to the I'le St Louis and am beginning to feel comfortable around the city.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Rest day after ski trip to Nevache
Tuesday Feb 22
We arrived at the Gare Asterlitz at 7:30 am then walked back home to the I'le St Louis. I spent the morning resting and organising photo and writing.
When we were in Biancon I booked the overnight trains from Paris to Nice and on to Trende for our next ski trip.
I also needed a day off to give some thought to my Barcelona trip.
In the afternoon I went out shopping for food and did a quick walk around the island to brush up on the surrounding shops and services. The French say you must go out every day in Paris.
We arrived at the Gare Asterlitz at 7:30 am then walked back home to the I'le St Louis. I spent the morning resting and organising photo and writing.
When we were in Biancon I booked the overnight trains from Paris to Nice and on to Trende for our next ski trip.
I also needed a day off to give some thought to my Barcelona trip.
In the afternoon I went out shopping for food and did a quick walk around the island to brush up on the surrounding shops and services. The French say you must go out every day in Paris.
Monday, February 21, 2011
Day 4 - Back-country ski trip from i re Magi refuge to the village of Nevache
Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22
Monday Feb 21
Our plan for Monday is to return to Nevache via the lower Col l'Echelle at only 1762 meters. The Refuse Manager, Francesca, has decided to climb the Col l'Echelle with us. So we left the refuge a little after 9 am and when Francesca had locked up the refuge.
We ski down the main road which was closed to regular traffic but groomed for skiers. It was a fast run around sweeping curves and switchbacks for about 4 kms. The trail up the Col l'Echelle had been simply packed for skiers by a skidoo and we quickly settled into a reasonably fast pace up the steep (for vehicles that is) and long climb.. There were a number of kilometer long switchbacks and each turn gave us wonderful view of high mountain peaks. The I'Aiguille Rouge (2545m), with its red limestone faces, and the Pointe Gaspand (2808m) on the east side of the valley.
Just before the top of the climb there were avalanche chutes to negotiate and tunnels to ski through (there is no snow inside tunnels!!). Final the national park display sign indicate the top and Francesca said her good-byes and skied back down. Fritz and I continue on a began to meet large group of walkers and skier ascending up from the far side. The Col l'Echelle had not yet been reached and it was another 2 kms of gentle climbing before we got there. There were a large number of skiers photographing each other at the Col sign post.
It was a nice easy run down the road to Nevache. the snow got a little thin before the end but caused up little problems.
We had been concern as to how we would ski/walk to Nevache but on reaching the main road we discover a freshly groomed cross-country racing trail. This trail when all the way to Nevache. At Nevache we got into trouble from the race organize for skiing on the track without registering first. Fritz calmed her down and when she heard where we had skied from she became very friendly and we were able to continue skiing on her track.
We may our way along the river, occasionally crossing the road and skiing between the houses. We arrive in the old village very early and in time to have lunch. After photographing the old church we had lunch at the Auberge Guillaume. After lunch we left our packs at the restaurant and skied further up the valley to some high small chapels. This gave us some good view of the valley and a nice ski run back down.
We picked up our pack and went to the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" to pick up my pack that had been left behind on Saturday. We had some hot wine here to fill in time before the bus left.
The Bus left at 7pm and we got on the train at Briancon to Paris. 10 hours to sleep.
 |
| Lodge Manager Francesca |
 |
| Refuse I de Magi |
Our plan for Monday is to return to Nevache via the lower Col l'Echelle at only 1762 meters. The Refuse Manager, Francesca, has decided to climb the Col l'Echelle with us. So we left the refuge a little after 9 am and when Francesca had locked up the refuge.
We ski down the main road which was closed to regular traffic but groomed for skiers. It was a fast run around sweeping curves and switchbacks for about 4 kms. The trail up the Col l'Echelle had been simply packed for skiers by a skidoo and we quickly settled into a reasonably fast pace up the steep (for vehicles that is) and long climb.. There were a number of kilometer long switchbacks and each turn gave us wonderful view of high mountain peaks. The I'Aiguille Rouge (2545m), with its red limestone faces, and the Pointe Gaspand (2808m) on the east side of the valley.
Just before the top of the climb there were avalanche chutes to negotiate and tunnels to ski through (there is no snow inside tunnels!!). Final the national park display sign indicate the top and Francesca said her good-byes and skied back down. Fritz and I continue on a began to meet large group of walkers and skier ascending up from the far side. The Col l'Echelle had not yet been reached and it was another 2 kms of gentle climbing before we got there. There were a large number of skiers photographing each other at the Col sign post.
It was a nice easy run down the road to Nevache. the snow got a little thin before the end but caused up little problems.
We had been concern as to how we would ski/walk to Nevache but on reaching the main road we discover a freshly groomed cross-country racing trail. This trail when all the way to Nevache. At Nevache we got into trouble from the race organize for skiing on the track without registering first. Fritz calmed her down and when she heard where we had skied from she became very friendly and we were able to continue skiing on her track.
We may our way along the river, occasionally crossing the road and skiing between the houses. We arrive in the old village very early and in time to have lunch. After photographing the old church we had lunch at the Auberge Guillaume. After lunch we left our packs at the restaurant and skied further up the valley to some high small chapels. This gave us some good view of the valley and a nice ski run back down.
We picked up our pack and went to the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" to pick up my pack that had been left behind on Saturday. We had some hot wine here to fill in time before the bus left.
The Bus left at 7pm and we got on the train at Briancon to Paris. 10 hours to sleep.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Day 3 - Back-country ski trip from the i Re Magi Refuge to the Col du Mont Thabon
Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22Sunday Feb 20
Well dawn broke at the i re Magi refuge with a surprise heavy snow fall around the refuge. We now planned to spend 2 nights at the i Re Magi.
Today (Sunday) we will complete the planned day trip over the Col de la Vallee-l'Echelle to the Mont Thabon refuge despite the snow.
We have decided not to return to Nevache village via the Col des Muandes 2828 meters on Monday. Fritz's investigation from local information suggested this route would be harder and 2 hours longer than our trip yesterday (day 2 - Saturday). Our modified plan for Monday is to return to Nevache via the lower Col l'Echelle at only 1762 meters. The Refuse Manager, Francesca, has decided to climb the Col l'Echelle with us. Her home area is around Naples where her summer job is as a Mountain guide. 
After a good breakfast Fritz and I set out in the snow for the Col de la Vallee-Etoite at 2526 meters. We skied back along the road that we can down yesterday over-taking a group of snow-shoers at the top of the first climb. We past the sign post at the track junction and this time continued north to cross the river on the Pont de la Fonderie (1897 meters) over the river Ruisseau de Vallee Etoite. We spent some time here taking photos and the Snow-shoers caught up to us. As we were following fresh ski tracks we had to work a little hard to get ahead of them again. The snow shoe tracks are no good to follow on skis. The ski tracks we were following where those of a group which left the Refuge 1 hour before us. They had to cross the Col de la Vallee-Etoite to catch a train at the larger town of Modane. Modane is about 12 km after crossing the Col.
We climbed steadily for about 1 km and reached a height of 2188 meters where we dropped down to cross a creek and then climbed steadily for about 2 km to 2326 meters. At this point the weather was turning with a stong wind and wet snow. Visibility was down to 3-5 meters in front and the ski trail was very difficult to follow. We were about 1 km from the Col but still needed to climb 200 meters. Fritz called a stop and had no opposition. We turned back and headed back down. The snow was excellent and skiing should have been great but, as this was a fresh fall it was "just" covering large limestone rocks. As soon as we start to ski we would crash (audibly) into these rocks with the usual results. Skiing remained like this until we were almost back to the river were we had a very nice 1 km run back to the bridge. Life wasn't meant to be easy.
On our way up earlier in the day we had seen a side trail to the Verde Lac and Fritz though this would be a nice place to have lunch so, on our return we took the trail. The trail descended to a bridge and then went vertically up a steep slope. The snow-shoers had no problem here but we did. There appeared to be an easier trail at a lower traverse and we cut that way for a while. We could not find the lake even after going almost all the way around the ridge. We finally went back to the original slope, took out skies off and walked up the steep slope. "Surprisingly" we ended up at a viewing point for the Lake. Not satisfied Fritz plugged steps down to the lake and we finally decided that it wasn't a very good lunch spot or a very good lake for that matter. We returned to the i re Magi refuge for lunch. A much more pleasant place.
Fritz went for a short afternoon ski on his own and took my Karhu Guide skis to try them out. He is now a convert and tried to get me to sell them to him.
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Day 2 - Back-country ski trip from the village of Nevache to the Col du Vallon
Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22
Saturday Feb 19 Click here for Photo album
After a good breakfast at the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" we were away at 8:50am heading back up the road to the walking track and upwards. We made good time and were feeling much better after a good sleep, and that I had left some "surplus" gear behind in the Gire (to be collected on Monday) so my pack was lighter.
We reached the top of the main climb in less than an hour and were up a the Chapel St Michel in less than 2 hours. The skies were clear and there was no wind today but we had put on our skins much earlier this time. We made our way passed the abandoned Chalet de Vallon refuge and headed more directly towards the Col du Vallon. Basically following our downwards ski tracks of yesterday. We could also see the faint downhill tracks of a previous ski group and this increased our confidence in our route selection.
We were enclosed by the sawing heights of the peaks of Crete des Garioles to the west and Rechers de la Paria, whose steep yellow/red limestone crags dominated the east side of the Vallee of the Torrent du Vallon. Our route was consistently steep as we traversed across the snow slope. Occasional "booming" sounds on fresh wind blown snow in small gullies reminded us that there was an ice layer beneath our feet and to constantly be aware of avalanche dangers. Fritz reprimanded me for skiing too close behind him as we should be well separated in these conditions. It was my turn to cut the track so I moved to the front.
Ahead we could make out the approximate position of the Col du Vallon. The Tour du Vallon (Tower of Vallon) could clearly be seen but the Col itself was obscured. On reaching the point where we had been forced to turn back yesterday the Col came in to view between the 2858 meter peak, le Recher Blanc, on the west and the impressive 2809 meter tower, the Tour du Vallon, on the east. Our re-estimates of the time from here to the Col was the same as yesterday as the route looked just as steep. The route took us up steeply to a narrow ridge which, surprisingly, lead directly to the Col at a reasonable slope. To our west was a circle of peaks surrounding Lac Blanc, the source of our "Torrent du Vallon". These 2900+ peaks dropped steep slopes to the lake. Fritz decided this was the spot for lunch as we could easily see our route to the Col. It was midday and we were here in good time.
Looking south down the Torrent du Vallon was an impressive view of distant craggy limestone peaks. The highest, was a "Matterhorn like" peak to the south. I have guessed it to be the 4102 meter peak in the south called "Barre des Ecrins". We left this very pleasant and memorable lunch spot and started our climb up to the Col du Vallon. We traversed around and small gully and worked our way on to the fine snow ridge which lead to the Col. Then, finally, we were on the Col du Vallon at 2645 meters. A small concrete plinth about 1 meter high, in a area scoured free of snow, marked the crossing. We took the time to experience such a remote and wild place as this, looking across to Lac Blanc and down the Torrents du Vallon from where we had came. We were satisfied that it was the correct decision to turn back yesterday and to repeat the crossing again today.
Our attention soon turned to the way forward. The Col presented us with a single and challenging prospect. The only way down was a double black run for some 200 meters or so. We didn't even think about removing our climbing skins and proceeded across the stones to the slope and pushed off. The snow was not dry, it was deep and require a definite attitude and angulation to keep our descent under control. we managed to get down the major slope without incident and took our climbing skins off for the remainder of the run. The snow was still heavy but skiing was better and we had a reasonably good run. To exit this valley we had to keep to the east side and pass under some very high and steep slopes coming down from the Tete du Chien. We moved quickly as we were able to follow the "up tracks" of previous skiers.
At the end of this traverse, at 2392 meters the snow condition deteriorated as the temperature dropped. A thick breakable crust developed over a deep layer of heavy fresh snow. The temperature has been around zero for most of the day. Ski-breakthrough-bog-fall became a repeated and frustrating sequence. Crust would break up into the thickness and weight of paving tiles. Impossible to turn. We muddled our was down to better slopes. The beauty of the mountains made up for the lack of skiing thrills. The 3222 meter peak Roche Bernarde and 3153 meter Pointe Balthazar were impressive companions.
At a high point a Christian Cross had been erected and we could see down to some ruined Chalets which we knew to be not far from our destination refuge "i re Magi" (The three Kings - we're in old Italian country now - the French just think it France). From here we reached a well used track down to the river "Ruisseau de Vallee Etrolte". A track junction sign-posted the way to our refuge for the night. (we are to return to this track junction tomorrow on our way to Mt Thabor - Sunday).
The track to i re Magi was well used and all downhill. So the next 2 kms went very quickly and skiing was more relaxed. The refuge i re Magi was in a little village and was a welcome sight. We were greeted by the very friendly Refuge Manager. We showered and changed for dinner, life slowed down and relaxation took over as we drank le vin et la bière. The meal was Italian - anti pasta, etc.
I re Mage was a popular destination and a party of 35 people came up on the (closed) road from the Italian side on skis, snowshoes and some came in to the refuge on a tiny over snow vehicle. They partied late and disappeared sometime during the night. i re Magi has a reputation for good food.
Slept well that night.
Saturday Feb 19 Click here for Photo album
We reached the top of the main climb in less than an hour and were up a the Chapel St Michel in less than 2 hours. The skies were clear and there was no wind today but we had put on our skins much earlier this time. We made our way passed the abandoned Chalet de Vallon refuge and headed more directly towards the Col du Vallon. Basically following our downwards ski tracks of yesterday. We could also see the faint downhill tracks of a previous ski group and this increased our confidence in our route selection. 
We were enclosed by the sawing heights of the peaks of Crete des Garioles to the west and Rechers de la Paria, whose steep yellow/red limestone crags dominated the east side of the Vallee of the Torrent du Vallon. Our route was consistently steep as we traversed across the snow slope. Occasional "booming" sounds on fresh wind blown snow in small gullies reminded us that there was an ice layer beneath our feet and to constantly be aware of avalanche dangers. Fritz reprimanded me for skiing too close behind him as we should be well separated in these conditions. It was my turn to cut the track so I moved to the front. 
Ahead we could make out the approximate position of the Col du Vallon. The Tour du Vallon (Tower of Vallon) could clearly be seen but the Col itself was obscured. On reaching the point where we had been forced to turn back yesterday the Col came in to view between the 2858 meter peak, le Recher Blanc, on the west and the impressive 2809 meter tower, the Tour du Vallon, on the east. Our re-estimates of the time from here to the Col was the same as yesterday as the route looked just as steep. The route took us up steeply to a narrow ridge which, surprisingly, lead directly to the Col at a reasonable slope. To our west was a circle of peaks surrounding Lac Blanc, the source of our "Torrent du Vallon". These 2900+ peaks dropped steep slopes to the lake. Fritz decided this was the spot for lunch as we could easily see our route to the Col. It was midday and we were here in good time. 
Looking south down the Torrent du Vallon was an impressive view of distant craggy limestone peaks. The highest, was a "Matterhorn like" peak to the south. I have guessed it to be the 4102 meter peak in the south called "Barre des Ecrins". We left this very pleasant and memorable lunch spot and started our climb up to the Col du Vallon. We traversed around and small gully and worked our way on to the fine snow ridge which lead to the Col. Then, finally, we were on the Col du Vallon at 2645 meters. A small concrete plinth about 1 meter high, in a area scoured free of snow, marked the crossing. We took the time to experience such a remote and wild place as this, looking across to Lac Blanc and down the Torrents du Vallon from where we had came. We were satisfied that it was the correct decision to turn back yesterday and to repeat the crossing again today.
Our attention soon turned to the way forward. The Col presented us with a single and challenging prospect. The only way down was a double black run for some 200 meters or so. We didn't even think about removing our climbing skins and proceeded across the stones to the slope and pushed off. The snow was not dry, it was deep and require a definite attitude and angulation to keep our descent under control. we managed to get down the major slope without incident and took our climbing skins off for the remainder of the run. The snow was still heavy but skiing was better and we had a reasonably good run. To exit this valley we had to keep to the east side and pass under some very high and steep slopes coming down from the Tete du Chien. We moved quickly as we were able to follow the "up tracks" of previous skiers.
At the end of this traverse, at 2392 meters the snow condition deteriorated as the temperature dropped. A thick breakable crust developed over a deep layer of heavy fresh snow. The temperature has been around zero for most of the day. Ski-breakthrough-bog-fall became a repeated and frustrating sequence. Crust would break up into the thickness and weight of paving tiles. Impossible to turn. We muddled our was down to better slopes. The beauty of the mountains made up for the lack of skiing thrills. The 3222 meter peak Roche Bernarde and 3153 meter Pointe Balthazar were impressive companions. 
At a high point a Christian Cross had been erected and we could see down to some ruined Chalets which we knew to be not far from our destination refuge "i re Magi" (The three Kings - we're in old Italian country now - the French just think it France). From here we reached a well used track down to the river "Ruisseau de Vallee Etrolte". A track junction sign-posted the way to our refuge for the night. (we are to return to this track junction tomorrow on our way to Mt Thabor - Sunday).
The track to i re Magi was well used and all downhill. So the next 2 kms went very quickly and skiing was more relaxed. The refuge i re Magi was in a little village and was a welcome sight. We were greeted by the very friendly Refuge Manager. We showered and changed for dinner, life slowed down and relaxation took over as we drank le vin et la bière. The meal was Italian - anti pasta, etc.I re Mage was a popular destination and a party of 35 people came up on the (closed) road from the Italian side on skis, snowshoes and some came in to the refuge on a tiny over snow vehicle. They partied late and disappeared sometime during the night. i re Magi has a reputation for good food.
Slept well that night.
Friday, February 18, 2011
Day 1 - Back-country ski trip from the village of Nevache to the Col du Vallon
Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22
Thursday Feb 17 Click here for Photo Album
I went to Gare Austerlitz to buy my return ticket to Biancon. I was imediately told that the Eurail Pass seat quota was full and I could not get a seat. As this was a new SNCF system I complained and was sent to the Information Department where I spoke to the Information Manager (the only English speaker). He was very sympathetic and agreed with me when I pointed out that the Eurail "Rule Book" (I was waving infront of him) made no mention of SNCF pass quotas. After 2.5 hours of negotiation with the ticket selling Department he organized a 'gift' of the seat to me as I was an important international customer!!! This would have seriously threatened our trip as Fritz had already booked his seat and the alternative trains times were very inconvenient and this was an excellent outcome.
After Dinner Fritz and I set off for the 10pm train from Gade Austerlitz to Biancon. The compartment was for six and we were supplied with a light weight sleeping bag and water. I found it very difficult to sleep and did not get much sleep at all.
The train was 2.5 hours late arriving at Biancon and this severely compromised out planned tour from Nevache village across the Vol du Vallon to "i Re Mesa" refuse. This tour was to take at least a 5 hour trip. We hurriedly started out at 1150am at Nevache (1620 meters) and skied west up a snow covered road for about 1 kilometer where we took a very steep walking track and climbed up to 1982 meters.
we took about 1 hour. We were feeling the fast pace and the lack of sleep. My pack was heavy with extra clothing and emergency gear. We also had essential avalanche equipment of snow shovel, beacons and probes.
The valley now flattened a little and the track was snow covered so we put on our skies. The scenery was very beautiful now as high limestone peaks
of the Crete de la Charmette began to tower steeply above us. The geological folded patterns in their high yellow cliffs added to their craggy awesome presence.
Ahead the ski trail was making it way to a little stone chapel perched high above us. We could see it had a bell tower and bell. It was called Chapel St Michel. We had a short chat with a French couple who were sheltering in the doorway and we moved on. It was 2pm. The wind was now very strong and cold. The terrain was steep so we put on our full length climbing skins. We chose to follow the top a ridge which led to the Col de Vallon. We were climbing steeply and slowly now but moving continuously. The peaks of Crete des Garioles and Re de la Paria surrounding the Col were like giant sentinels with their sharp pointed crags.
Feeling very tried we arrived at a high point where we could see the route to the Col du Vallon. We estimated that it would take more than an hour to reach this Col. It was now 3:15pm. We had come a little over half the distance and had no idea as to the problems we were to encounter once we crossed the Col du Vallon. The terrain was steep and the navigation had to be precise. At best we may reach the refuge i Re Magi at 7pm - 1 hour in darkness. This was a life and death decision as there was no shelter before the refuge. It was clear we had to turn back. I was concerned that this would also result in a late night but Fitz felt sure we could get back in daylight. We knew all the risks on the return trip and there would be no surprises.
We removes our climbing skins and turned back, this time skiing directly back to the chapel, (checking out an accessable attic in an abandoned refuge as possible emergency shelter on the way) then slide-slipped down the steep slope below the Chapel and on along the Torrent du Vallon river to the walking track. We arrived back at the small town of Nevache at 1730 with 1/2 an hour of daylight remaining.
Asking at a local shop we were directed to the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" where we found dormitory beds for $38 - dinner bed & breakfast. We settled in to a Vin Chaud (hot wine) both of us relieved to be down safely. Dinner was a cheese omellette and garlic potatoes. This was a most enjoyable meal and a little better that we would have had in the attic of the abandoned refuge.
Our revised plan was to start the trip again early tomorrow morning and cross over the Col du Vallon at lunch time. We should then have plenty of time to work through the problems skiing down from the Col du Vallon to the refuge I Re Magi.
Thursday Feb 17 Click here for Photo Album
I went to Gare Austerlitz to buy my return ticket to Biancon. I was imediately told that the Eurail Pass seat quota was full and I could not get a seat. As this was a new SNCF system I complained and was sent to the Information Department where I spoke to the Information Manager (the only English speaker). He was very sympathetic and agreed with me when I pointed out that the Eurail "Rule Book" (I was waving infront of him) made no mention of SNCF pass quotas. After 2.5 hours of negotiation with the ticket selling Department he organized a 'gift' of the seat to me as I was an important international customer!!! This would have seriously threatened our trip as Fritz had already booked his seat and the alternative trains times were very inconvenient and this was an excellent outcome.
After Dinner Fritz and I set off for the 10pm train from Gade Austerlitz to Biancon. The compartment was for six and we were supplied with a light weight sleeping bag and water. I found it very difficult to sleep and did not get much sleep at all.
The train was 2.5 hours late arriving at Biancon and this severely compromised out planned tour from Nevache village across the Vol du Vallon to "i Re Mesa" refuse. This tour was to take at least a 5 hour trip. We hurriedly started out at 1150am at Nevache (1620 meters) and skied west up a snow covered road for about 1 kilometer where we took a very steep walking track and climbed up to 1982 meters.
we took about 1 hour. We were feeling the fast pace and the lack of sleep. My pack was heavy with extra clothing and emergency gear. We also had essential avalanche equipment of snow shovel, beacons and probes.
The valley now flattened a little and the track was snow covered so we put on our skies. The scenery was very beautiful now as high limestone peaks
of the Crete de la Charmette began to tower steeply above us. The geological folded patterns in their high yellow cliffs added to their craggy awesome presence.
Ahead the ski trail was making it way to a little stone chapel perched high above us. We could see it had a bell tower and bell. It was called Chapel St Michel. We had a short chat with a French couple who were sheltering in the doorway and we moved on. It was 2pm. The wind was now very strong and cold. The terrain was steep so we put on our full length climbing skins. We chose to follow the top a ridge which led to the Col de Vallon. We were climbing steeply and slowly now but moving continuously. The peaks of Crete des Garioles and Re de la Paria surrounding the Col were like giant sentinels with their sharp pointed crags.
Feeling very tried we arrived at a high point where we could see the route to the Col du Vallon. We estimated that it would take more than an hour to reach this Col. It was now 3:15pm. We had come a little over half the distance and had no idea as to the problems we were to encounter once we crossed the Col du Vallon. The terrain was steep and the navigation had to be precise. At best we may reach the refuge i Re Magi at 7pm - 1 hour in darkness. This was a life and death decision as there was no shelter before the refuge. It was clear we had to turn back. I was concerned that this would also result in a late night but Fitz felt sure we could get back in daylight. We knew all the risks on the return trip and there would be no surprises.
We removes our climbing skins and turned back, this time skiing directly back to the chapel, (checking out an accessable attic in an abandoned refuge as possible emergency shelter on the way) then slide-slipped down the steep slope below the Chapel and on along the Torrent du Vallon river to the walking track. We arrived back at the small town of Nevache at 1730 with 1/2 an hour of daylight remaining.
Asking at a local shop we were directed to the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" where we found dormitory beds for $38 - dinner bed & breakfast. We settled in to a Vin Chaud (hot wine) both of us relieved to be down safely. Dinner was a cheese omellette and garlic potatoes. This was a most enjoyable meal and a little better that we would have had in the attic of the abandoned refuge.
Our revised plan was to start the trip again early tomorrow morning and cross over the Col du Vallon at lunch time. We should then have plenty of time to work through the problems skiing down from the Col du Vallon to the refuge I Re Magi.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Back-country ski trip in Briancon area in South France
Fritz has come in and explained the details of the Ski trip they are planning now - looks great. We are leaving on the 2300 night train to Briancon (near Genolble in the south). We now have to do some planning and preparation.
From Briancon we will bus to the village of Nevache and immediately start the 16km (1034 meter climb) tour up the Torrent du Vallon and cross the Col du Vallon to the refuge "i Re Magi" (1780 meters) in the Vallee Etroite.
On Friday we are to ski to the Refuge Mont Thabon and return which is about 16kms return and a 700 meter climb.
On Saturday is another 1000 meter climb and we need to retrace our steps back towards the Col du Vallon but head north to the lac du Lavor and cross the Col des Munndes (2828 meters). Descending the Torrent de Brune to the Refugedes Drayeres (2152 meters). Monday we would return to Nevache.
From Briancon we will bus to the village of Nevache and immediately start the 16km (1034 meter climb) tour up the Torrent du Vallon and cross the Col du Vallon to the refuge "i Re Magi" (1780 meters) in the Vallee Etroite.
On Friday we are to ski to the Refuge Mont Thabon and return which is about 16kms return and a 700 meter climb.
On Saturday is another 1000 meter climb and we need to retrace our steps back towards the Col du Vallon but head north to the lac du Lavor and cross the Col des Munndes (2828 meters). Descending the Torrent de Brune to the Refugedes Drayeres (2152 meters). Monday we would return to Nevache.
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
The Marmottan-Claude Monet Museum
Wednesday Feb 16, 2011
To continue my quest to follow the impressionist trail I set out at 10:30am (a little late) and headed to the St-Michel Notre-dame metro/RER station. After a bit of delay when the only ticketing machine was being "re-booted" I finally got my tickets and was on my way. I got off at the Boulainvilliers-La Muette station. Thinking this double name station was all one station I headed off to walk to the museum. Very soon I relaise that navigation was not going well. A quick adjustment though some narrow street I was back on track, Probably lost 15 minutes or so but I saw some additional Parisian community life which wasn't on the plan - that's OK. I arrive at Muette Place and then proceeded along the rue Ranelagh to the Marmottan-Claude Monet Museum. I pause to have lunch in a large park just before the Museum and, being winter, all trees were bare and the garden were all being prepared for the cold and plants were being dug up.
My description of the Marmottan Monet gallery will have to wait as Fritz has come in and explained the details of the Ski trip they are planning now - looks great. We are leaving on the 2300 night train to Bradonecchia (near Genolble in the south). We now have to do some planning and prepartion. I'll have to go to the Orangenie Museum on Thursday because I have a ticket - a lot to fit in but I should have time to up-date this post on Thursday.
The Marmottan Monet gallery
This is a very large collection of the rest of Monet's work by family and private collectors. While it does not contain many of Monet's best painting there are some that are very interesting.
eg
Gare St Lazare 1877
Impressie Soleil Levant 1872
Paintings of his children, Portrait of Bertha Morrison. (I'll add more from my notes later)
There was a nice portrait of Claude Monet and Madam Claude Monet both by Renoir
In general I found this museum an educational exercise and allowed me to see the development of Monet's thinking as he got older and diverged from his impressionist compatriots. The large number of Water Lily painting where almost overwhelming as were the many Avenue of Roses, the Basin of Nymphs and the Japanese Bridge. He spend a huge amount of his time constructing his garden in Girverny. You could see the development of his ideas on light and reflections. This collection are, in the main, a collection of his experimentations. Monet's successful works are found in the major museums as the Mussee d'Orsay.
After studying Monet for some days now I have come to a personal stand that I have a preference and respect for the technical mastery of Manet and the brilliance and colour of Renoir. I believed they achieved real results while Monet was experimenting with abstraction in landscape.
It Museum was an important for it educational value.
To continue my quest to follow the impressionist trail I set out at 10:30am (a little late) and headed to the St-Michel Notre-dame metro/RER station. After a bit of delay when the only ticketing machine was being "re-booted" I finally got my tickets and was on my way. I got off at the Boulainvilliers-La Muette station. Thinking this double name station was all one station I headed off to walk to the museum. Very soon I relaise that navigation was not going well. A quick adjustment though some narrow street I was back on track, Probably lost 15 minutes or so but I saw some additional Parisian community life which wasn't on the plan - that's OK. I arrive at Muette Place and then proceeded along the rue Ranelagh to the Marmottan-Claude Monet Museum. I pause to have lunch in a large park just before the Museum and, being winter, all trees were bare and the garden were all being prepared for the cold and plants were being dug up.
My description of the Marmottan Monet gallery will have to wait as Fritz has come in and explained the details of the Ski trip they are planning now - looks great. We are leaving on the 2300 night train to Bradonecchia (near Genolble in the south). We now have to do some planning and prepartion. I'll have to go to the Orangenie Museum on Thursday because I have a ticket - a lot to fit in but I should have time to up-date this post on Thursday.
The Marmottan Monet gallery
This is a very large collection of the rest of Monet's work by family and private collectors. While it does not contain many of Monet's best painting there are some that are very interesting.
eg
Gare St Lazare 1877
Impressie Soleil Levant 1872
Paintings of his children, Portrait of Bertha Morrison. (I'll add more from my notes later)
There was a nice portrait of Claude Monet and Madam Claude Monet both by Renoir
In general I found this museum an educational exercise and allowed me to see the development of Monet's thinking as he got older and diverged from his impressionist compatriots. The large number of Water Lily painting where almost overwhelming as were the many Avenue of Roses, the Basin of Nymphs and the Japanese Bridge. He spend a huge amount of his time constructing his garden in Girverny. You could see the development of his ideas on light and reflections. This collection are, in the main, a collection of his experimentations. Monet's successful works are found in the major museums as the Mussee d'Orsay.
After studying Monet for some days now I have come to a personal stand that I have a preference and respect for the technical mastery of Manet and the brilliance and colour of Renoir. I believed they achieved real results while Monet was experimenting with abstraction in landscape.
It Museum was an important for it educational value.
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
Walk on the left bank and the Musee d'Orsay
Tuesday Feb 15, 2011
Fritz came down for a morning coffee and he spread out a couple of topo maps and we discussed possible skiing areas for our first ski trip. We decided we would do a trip on a large limestone plateux in the area between the town of Die and the City of Grenoble. We went over the maps and planned some possible routes. We many have to camp out one night in a simple shelter.
Today I planned to walk the streets of Paris and not get the metro. I wanted to get a feel for where things are in the city and to observe what people do each day. I set out about 9:30 am to go to the Musse d'Orsay where most of the Impressionist painting are now hung. I chose a route which passed the birth place of Edouard Manet and also to find the studio of Frederic Bazille, which both Claude Monet and Auguste Renoir were invited to share with him while they all attended the Ecole des Beaux-Arts. So I retraced my steps back to Notre Dame, took some photos of the butresses, then crossed to the left bank of the Seine and walked along the "quai's" to the Pont Neuf. I crossed this bridge briefly to see from where both Monet and Renoir did their paintings of it in 1872. I continue back on the left bank and visited Manet's birthplace a 5 rue Bonapart. It was being renovated and the old man in the shop at number 3 knew nothing of Manet's birth place. Originally there was a plague on the door post but there was no sign of it. I continued a little further to 20 rue Visconti, the studio of Bazille and on to have lunch in the Cafe la Palette, a favourite haunt of Artist in the area.
At 1pm I headed for the Musee d'Orsay and spent 1/2 hour in a queque to get throught the security to get inside. This was an amazing experience to see so many of the famous paintings which I had studied, and sometimes spent long days copying, right there in font of my eyes. The painting were so much brighter than the prints I had seen. Monet life long work on relected light was so clearly successful, as were the paintings of the hay stacks and the mpany view of the Cathederal at Rhoan. Renoir's great painting of 'Dancing at the Moulin de la Galette" was so colourful and bright. Manet's great skill was ever so evident in many paintings. I will have to document all the painting that impressed me.
I return to the Ile Saint Louis at 6pm and shopped for food at the local shop. My French got a workout but I found everyone was tolerant and other customers were quietly help. Asking for 'cooking oil' was a challenge but buying my vegetables and bread worked our well.
Fritz came down for a morning coffee and he spread out a couple of topo maps and we discussed possible skiing areas for our first ski trip. We decided we would do a trip on a large limestone plateux in the area between the town of Die and the City of Grenoble. We went over the maps and planned some possible routes. We many have to camp out one night in a simple shelter.
Today I planned to walk the streets of Paris and not get the metro. I wanted to get a feel for where things are in the city and to observe what people do each day. I set out about 9:30 am to go to the Musse d'Orsay where most of the Impressionist painting are now hung. I chose a route which passed the birth place of Edouard Manet and also to find the studio of Frederic Bazille, which both Claude Monet and Auguste Renoir were invited to share with him while they all attended the Ecole des Beaux-Arts. So I retraced my steps back to Notre Dame, took some photos of the butresses, then crossed to the left bank of the Seine and walked along the "quai's" to the Pont Neuf. I crossed this bridge briefly to see from where both Monet and Renoir did their paintings of it in 1872. I continue back on the left bank and visited Manet's birthplace a 5 rue Bonapart. It was being renovated and the old man in the shop at number 3 knew nothing of Manet's birth place. Originally there was a plague on the door post but there was no sign of it. I continued a little further to 20 rue Visconti, the studio of Bazille and on to have lunch in the Cafe la Palette, a favourite haunt of Artist in the area.
At 1pm I headed for the Musee d'Orsay and spent 1/2 hour in a queque to get throught the security to get inside. This was an amazing experience to see so many of the famous paintings which I had studied, and sometimes spent long days copying, right there in font of my eyes. The painting were so much brighter than the prints I had seen. Monet life long work on relected light was so clearly successful, as were the paintings of the hay stacks and the mpany view of the Cathederal at Rhoan. Renoir's great painting of 'Dancing at the Moulin de la Galette" was so colourful and bright. Manet's great skill was ever so evident in many paintings. I will have to document all the painting that impressed me.
I return to the Ile Saint Louis at 6pm and shopped for food at the local shop. My French got a workout but I found everyone was tolerant and other customers were quietly help. Asking for 'cooking oil' was a challenge but buying my vegetables and bread worked our well.
Getting there and arrival in Paris
The flight got away exactly on time and took an interesting tour up the Australian coastline. It flew directly north and inland crossing the coast just south of Cairns. I could see a small sized town which could have been in the Tully area but I could not see any cyclone damage. It then flew out to sea and directly over the reef,\ and we could see clearly many small coral quays. There were many boats moored around each and in some cases I was sure I could see small buildings on some of the quays. After we flew over New Guinea and the might Septic River which was muddy and there were a number of mining settling ponds on the valuable riverside farmland.
They served some very good Korean food "Bibimbap", the hostess was overjoyed that I had this meal.
We down to land in Seoul and saw a neatly laid out city with many low rise apartment buildings. The river flats were still kept as farmland all the way though the city. The Hyatt hotel had a good buffet and I slept well.
Monday 13th 2011
It was a long 11 hour flight from Seoul to Paris. Some nice Korean food again. Flew over parts of China and Mongolia. Siberia was a long and bleak sight with a thin icy cover all over and not very deep snow. The Ural mountains were interesting. Finally the neat villages of the French countryside turned up and I was in France.
Made it through the baggage and customs ok and got the RER B line train to Paris and the Garde St Michel- Notre Dame. After I struggled up the stairs with my gear and skis I was confronted with the sight of the Notre Dame Cathedral - I had to stop and take in the sight. It really brought it home to me that I was in Paris. I crossed the Seine at the Rue de la Cite and walked to face the facade of Notre Dame. Its powerful presence brought me to a stop again. I sudied the elaborate entrances, the wooden doorways atopped by the Gallery of Kings and the Central Rose Window. I then proceeded down the street to the left and along the side of the great Cathedral walking beneath the gargols and famous flying buttresses. I crossed the Pont St Louis to the Ile St Louis.
I proceeded along the quay to the Rue Regrattier and met up with Fritz. We had a long talk and then Fritz took me on an evening tour of the Ile St Louis. The classical building all biult around 1690. Most of the buildings had a plaque detailing its history. I was particularly taken when I found a building where Emile Bonnard lived for 30 years.(check).
We return to Fritz's home and met Beverly and Fitz cooked a very nice meat tart and salad. We are delaying our first ski trip as it is snowing all this week and it will be best to ski after the snow settles.
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Nearly ready to leave for Paris on Sunday
I have got all my Skiing and other "essential" stuff into my check-in and cabin bags. 20kg in the hole and 12kg in the cabin. Just enough to squeeze it all in. Lots of guide books to read on the flight and my new android Phone to play with and listen to my French lessons. My Ski gear takes most of the space as does my electronic toys and all their spare batteries and memory chips, chargers, cables etc. I feel organised and ready, I even have the ticket for train from CDG airport to my friend Fritz's home. (Fritz sent me the ticket). I'll try and relax for the next 2 day. I hate that last minute rush. I have this feeling that there is something very important that I have forgotten.
Thursday, February 3, 2011
Trip to France Feb 13 to Apr 13 2011
The Plan:
The decision to take this trip was made quickly but it had been "planned" for many years. When I saw the very cheap air fares and the good euro exchange rate I though that it was an opportunity not to be missed.
I managed to get a very cheap flight on Korean Airlines direct to Paris (thankfully avoiding Heathrow). I also bought a 2 month 15 day Eurail pass.
Basically I will head off on Sunday, February 13th, arriving in Paris on Feb 14 where I will stay at a friends place in the city centre. After a few days settling in we will head off south (by train) to do 4 days or so back-country skiing from hut to hut in the mountains near Grenoble. We will then return to Paris.
I will spend the next 10 days or so doing walking trips around the city centre following the path of the Impressionist painters. Visiting the site and haunts where they painted their famous paintings. I'll follow Monet and visit Giverny.
Following this another back-country ski trip is planned. We will again head south to Nice and on to the mountains on the Italian border. We will base at a remote hotel out from the town of Tende and ski for four days.
At this point I may take advantage of the geography and head off on my to Barcelona for 4 days. Here I will follow the early surrealist and their haunts. Picaso, Miro, Dali + Gaudi of course.
From Barcelona I will train to Chamonix were I will meet my friends from Paris and head off back-country skiing (yet to be planned).
Returning to Paris I will continue to slowly and methodically work through the Art Galleries and Museums till late March.
I will then embark on a major railway excursion to go specifically to cities to which I unable to visit in previous trips to Europe (Iron curtain problems etc). I will head first to Amsterdam for a few days. Then I will take a long over night train trip direct to Prague where I will spend 5 days working through the city. I've long desires to visit Prague. On the way to Berlin I will spend only one day in Dresden. In Berlin I am planning to stay 4 days exploring the city and soaking up its history.
From Berlin I will take a direct over night trip back to Paris where I will have about 5 day before I return to Sydney on April 13, 2011.
This sounds all very definite but I'll probably change my mind and decide to include other place as well.
The decision to take this trip was made quickly but it had been "planned" for many years. When I saw the very cheap air fares and the good euro exchange rate I though that it was an opportunity not to be missed.
I managed to get a very cheap flight on Korean Airlines direct to Paris (thankfully avoiding Heathrow). I also bought a 2 month 15 day Eurail pass.
Basically I will head off on Sunday, February 13th, arriving in Paris on Feb 14 where I will stay at a friends place in the city centre. After a few days settling in we will head off south (by train) to do 4 days or so back-country skiing from hut to hut in the mountains near Grenoble. We will then return to Paris.
I will spend the next 10 days or so doing walking trips around the city centre following the path of the Impressionist painters. Visiting the site and haunts where they painted their famous paintings. I'll follow Monet and visit Giverny.
Following this another back-country ski trip is planned. We will again head south to Nice and on to the mountains on the Italian border. We will base at a remote hotel out from the town of Tende and ski for four days.
At this point I may take advantage of the geography and head off on my to Barcelona for 4 days. Here I will follow the early surrealist and their haunts. Picaso, Miro, Dali + Gaudi of course.
From Barcelona I will train to Chamonix were I will meet my friends from Paris and head off back-country skiing (yet to be planned).
Returning to Paris I will continue to slowly and methodically work through the Art Galleries and Museums till late March.
I will then embark on a major railway excursion to go specifically to cities to which I unable to visit in previous trips to Europe (Iron curtain problems etc). I will head first to Amsterdam for a few days. Then I will take a long over night train trip direct to Prague where I will spend 5 days working through the city. I've long desires to visit Prague. On the way to Berlin I will spend only one day in Dresden. In Berlin I am planning to stay 4 days exploring the city and soaking up its history.
From Berlin I will take a direct over night trip back to Paris where I will have about 5 day before I return to Sydney on April 13, 2011.
This sounds all very definite but I'll probably change my mind and decide to include other place as well.
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