Monday Feb 28
Today my mission was to see the Orangerie Gallery and also the Delacroux's house galley.
Orangerie is a collection of paintings by Guillaume Rogers. Found the Renoir collection very interesting but the most amazing galleries were the two upstairs galleries built especially for Monet's major achievement of 8 HUGE painting of his water lilies. After seeing many of Monet's "practice paintings" of water lilies at the Mamottan Monet gallery I was really taken a-back when I saw these. I returned to these rooms again before I left just to refresh my mind. I was so much to take in. The rest at the Orangerie Galley was great and really worthwhile to see. The Renoir collection ("R-n-wa" no e) and I now know some new names that I now need to follow up.
(check photos and add nomes here)
The Delacroux's house galley was a waste of time. I have been very impressed with Delacroix's painting in both the l'Orsay and the Louvre.
Tuesday Mar 1
At home day.
Catalogued all my photos and did a pencil drawing of the St Michel Chapel in the Torrent of Vallon valley when we were ski recently.
Wednesday Mar 2
Planned this day better and managed to achieve all visits (a number as closed for various reasons)
Started by returning to Delacroix's house again. I took a short-cut along the nice and narrow street St Andre des Arts to Satre-Beauvoir Place. This is the area where to modern Philosophers gathered in cafes). I came to see the Church, St German des Pres, a very old Romanesque architecture containing the tomb of the philosopher Descartes.
I then headed along Rue Bonaparte to St Sulpice Place and the 2nd largest Cathedral in Paris. It has two towers and inside I found a chapel with 3 Delacroix paintings. An interesting fact I discovered was that he mixed his paints with molten wax to preserve the paintings. Looking closely at the painting you could see the wax and it must have been very difficult to apply.
I was then off along the rue Garancieve to the Palias du Luxembourg and the gardens. The building is the government office for the senate and not accessible. The Medici wife of King Henry IV built this palias to remind her of her Italian home. It is a very beautifully set out garden, currently without flowers or tree with leave. The fountain pond and tree and the vista to the Pantheon were all very nice. The long view down lawn back to the Palais was impressive. It is now used by local students for social cafe and exercise along the many paths and playing areas.
Leaving the garden and heading along the avenue de l'Observatory I passed the famous "Fountain of the four parts of the world". This was a particularly beautiful fountain with the four maidens looking very graceful as they carried the world on their shoulders.
I was heading toward the Paris Observatory hoping to see the time marker - unfortunately it was close for renovations. I continued on to the Place Denfert Rochreau where there was a huge sculpture of a lion in the centre with all the car circulating around. I was here to see the Paris Catacombs and they were hard to find. In fact the entrance was right in the Place but the only sign post pointed away from the Place. The Catacombs of Paris are old abandoned limestone mines (abandoned because of serious subsidence cause the building above to collapse) which were re-used to bury the Paris dead because of heath problem arising from cemeteries within the city. All bones, with occasional little chapels for service. Signs told us that some were exhumed from city cemeteries of were the dead from specific revolutions. All very neatly and respectfully arranged skulls and bones in their thousands. It was very interesting but a bit macabre. (There is an other museum which takes you into the sewers of Paris. I'm no sure that I am ready for that one.)
From here I headed along the rue de St Jacques to the Pantheon. An impressive piece of architecture and geometry, even though the early attempt at using steel for reinforcing concrete is now failing and bit are falling off the building. The building was first built as a church but under Napoleon it changed to be a "secular public building" for special occasions and for the burial of significant Frenchmen. Madam Curie, Victor Hugo, Voltaire Rousseau and Emile Zola are in the crypt.
At this point I was keen to get back to the I'le St Louis and headed along St Germain Bd - bought some veges and bran - I'm getting to know the local shops. I found an interesting and not-on-the-tourist-route church - (Can't find its name) I did not take any photo as it was full of people actively praying at all the various chapels to saints. It to me that France is a very Catholic country (surprise!!)
A very trying day. I did not use the metro as I still find it fast to walk to palaces and I like to take interesting streets and see the life. There is a lot of darkness in the Metro tunnels and you don't see much.
Must plan tomorrow. Friday I have to pack for the ski trip to Nice (Tende). They have had a lot of snow this week.
A Norwegian friend of Fritz (uno) who is coming on the ski trip will be having dinner with us tomorrow night. (the conversation will be in English!!)
Thursday Mar 3
Another better planned day.
Caught the metro to Madeleine Metro station and emerged from the underground to find myself beneath towering columns
Madeleine
Elysee Palace
Impresioinist walk around the Place de Europe
Paris Opera house
(complete)
Friday Mar 4
Napolian's tombe and the Musee Rodin with Uno.
(complete)
Saturday, March 5, 2011
Monday, February 28, 2011
Galleries & Monuments: Tuesday Feb 22 to Sunday Feb 27
Tuesday Feb 22
We arrived at the Gare Asterlitz at 7:30 am then walked back home to the I'le St Louis. I spent the morning resting and organising photo and writing. I have booked the overnight trains to Nice for our next ski trip when we were in Biancon, I also needed to give some thought to my Barcelona trip.
In the afternoon I went out shopping for food and did a quick walk around the island.
Wednesday Feb 23
I had to return the Avalanche beacon (called ARVA's in France) to the shop "La Haute Route" 33 Boulevard Henry IV. Hence I decide to include a walk to the Bastille and learn about all that "storming" that went on there.
I found the shop ok and returned the ARVA and tried to get a goretex patch kit to repair Fritz's pack (my ski bindings had put a hole in the pack he lent me). They sent me to "Vieux Campeur at 48 rue des Escoles. This was just across the Seine and in the Latin Quarter of the city (so called because it is the university are and long ago all teaching was done in Latin and everyone in this area spoke in Latin). But first i was now on my way to the Bastille. The Bastille was a great fortress which became a prison and the old plan is marked out in cobble stone around the Place de la Bastille. The prison was not a popular place and was to focus of the revolutionaries in July 1789. The current column was built 50 year later to commemorate and record the name of those who died in the storming.
I walked back down Boulevard Henry IV across the river and found the Veux Campeur shop and got the repair kit. Makes me feel a bit happier. Returned to the I'le St Louis and am beginning to feel comfortable around the city.
Thursday Feb 24
Set out to do make a start on the biggest project - the Louvre. I had previously check out the Louvre and got the necessary maps. I planned, and completed, to do the 1st floor only - the old masters from the 14th C to the 17th C. It was hard work and I had to control my time carefully.
Following the development of detailed painting and design of mainly religious subjects. (The cost of paint was prohibitive and these were all commissioned art). To greater understanding of drafting the human body and much later understanding perspective. The colours improved in the 17th C and design became more important. By the 18th C there was much of the beginning of impressionism. (update more later)
I was able to photograph all the paintings and notes (in French!!) I found interesting. I will publish these in my photo album on filsonplace.com (soon)
This floor took me all day to cover.
Friday Feb 25
I planned a big day. First I wanted to see the important sites on the I'le de la l'Cite. The other big cathedral - St Chapelle, The Palias de Justice and the Conciergerie. These 3 took all day and I had to revise my plans. I also bought a 4 day Musee Pass It was very cost effective and by the end of the day I was 20 euro ahead).
Saturday Feb 26
Back to the Louvre to do the 2nd Floor - Flemish, Dutch, German and a huge section of French paints all covering the period 14th C to 18th C.
Again,I was able to photograph all the paintings and notes (in French!!) I found interesting and will publish these in my photo album on filsonplace.com (soon)
Click here to link to Louvre 2nd floor photo notes
Sunday Feb 27
I set off to do the Arc de Triomphe and Tour de Eiffel to get the best out of my 4 day Musee pass
Standing on top these huge monuments was amazing. Paris has been "height restricted" to maintain the old character of the city and being so high above gave me the same aerial perspective as the first scene of the movie Moulin Rouge. I felt I could zoom down into the streets of Paris. I squeezed in two more Mussees - A science Museum in the Grand Palace - which is a great science learning centre for kids, and the Petit Palace where I saw some nice Monet and Cezanne paintings.
I managed to master the Metro today.
We arrived at the Gare Asterlitz at 7:30 am then walked back home to the I'le St Louis. I spent the morning resting and organising photo and writing. I have booked the overnight trains to Nice for our next ski trip when we were in Biancon, I also needed to give some thought to my Barcelona trip.
In the afternoon I went out shopping for food and did a quick walk around the island.
Wednesday Feb 23
I had to return the Avalanche beacon (called ARVA's in France) to the shop "La Haute Route" 33 Boulevard Henry IV. Hence I decide to include a walk to the Bastille and learn about all that "storming" that went on there.
I found the shop ok and returned the ARVA and tried to get a goretex patch kit to repair Fritz's pack (my ski bindings had put a hole in the pack he lent me). They sent me to "Vieux Campeur at 48 rue des Escoles. This was just across the Seine and in the Latin Quarter of the city (so called because it is the university are and long ago all teaching was done in Latin and everyone in this area spoke in Latin). But first i was now on my way to the Bastille. The Bastille was a great fortress which became a prison and the old plan is marked out in cobble stone around the Place de la Bastille. The prison was not a popular place and was to focus of the revolutionaries in July 1789. The current column was built 50 year later to commemorate and record the name of those who died in the storming.
I walked back down Boulevard Henry IV across the river and found the Veux Campeur shop and got the repair kit. Makes me feel a bit happier. Returned to the I'le St Louis and am beginning to feel comfortable around the city.
Thursday Feb 24
Set out to do make a start on the biggest project - the Louvre. I had previously check out the Louvre and got the necessary maps. I planned, and completed, to do the 1st floor only - the old masters from the 14th C to the 17th C. It was hard work and I had to control my time carefully.
Following the development of detailed painting and design of mainly religious subjects. (The cost of paint was prohibitive and these were all commissioned art). To greater understanding of drafting the human body and much later understanding perspective. The colours improved in the 17th C and design became more important. By the 18th C there was much of the beginning of impressionism. (update more later)
I was able to photograph all the paintings and notes (in French!!) I found interesting. I will publish these in my photo album on filsonplace.com (soon)
This floor took me all day to cover.
Friday Feb 25
I planned a big day. First I wanted to see the important sites on the I'le de la l'Cite. The other big cathedral - St Chapelle, The Palias de Justice and the Conciergerie. These 3 took all day and I had to revise my plans. I also bought a 4 day Musee Pass It was very cost effective and by the end of the day I was 20 euro ahead).
Saturday Feb 26
Back to the Louvre to do the 2nd Floor - Flemish, Dutch, German and a huge section of French paints all covering the period 14th C to 18th C.
Again,I was able to photograph all the paintings and notes (in French!!) I found interesting and will publish these in my photo album on filsonplace.com (soon)
Click here to link to Louvre 2nd floor photo notes
Sunday Feb 27
I set off to do the Arc de Triomphe and Tour de Eiffel to get the best out of my 4 day Musee pass
Standing on top these huge monuments was amazing. Paris has been "height restricted" to maintain the old character of the city and being so high above gave me the same aerial perspective as the first scene of the movie Moulin Rouge. I felt I could zoom down into the streets of Paris. I squeezed in two more Mussees - A science Museum in the Grand Palace - which is a great science learning centre for kids, and the Petit Palace where I saw some nice Monet and Cezanne paintings.
I managed to master the Metro today.
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Storming the Bastille
Wednesday Feb 23
I had to return the Avalanche beacon (called ARVA's in France) to the shop "La Haute Route" 33 Boulevard Henry IV. Hence I decide to include a walk to the Bastille and learn about all that "storming" that went on there.
I found the shop ok and returned the ARVA and tried to get a goretex patch kit to repair Fritz's pack (my ski bindings had put a hole in the pack he lent me). They sent me to "Vieux Campeur at 48 rue des Escoles. This was just across the Seine and in the Latin Quarter of the city (so called because it is the university are and long ago all teaching was done in Latin and everyone in this area spoke in Latin). But first i was now on my way to the Bastille. The Bastille was a great fortress which became a prison and the old plan is marked out in cobble stone around the Place de la Bastille. The prison was not a popular place and was to focus of the revolutionaries in July 1789. The current column was built 50 year later to commemorate and record the name of those who died in the storming.
I walked back down Boulevard Henry IV across the river and found the Veux Campeur shop and got the repair kit. Makes me feel a bit happier. Returned to the I'le St Louis and am beginning to feel comfortable around the city.
I had to return the Avalanche beacon (called ARVA's in France) to the shop "La Haute Route" 33 Boulevard Henry IV. Hence I decide to include a walk to the Bastille and learn about all that "storming" that went on there.
I found the shop ok and returned the ARVA and tried to get a goretex patch kit to repair Fritz's pack (my ski bindings had put a hole in the pack he lent me). They sent me to "Vieux Campeur at 48 rue des Escoles. This was just across the Seine and in the Latin Quarter of the city (so called because it is the university are and long ago all teaching was done in Latin and everyone in this area spoke in Latin). But first i was now on my way to the Bastille. The Bastille was a great fortress which became a prison and the old plan is marked out in cobble stone around the Place de la Bastille. The prison was not a popular place and was to focus of the revolutionaries in July 1789. The current column was built 50 year later to commemorate and record the name of those who died in the storming.
I walked back down Boulevard Henry IV across the river and found the Veux Campeur shop and got the repair kit. Makes me feel a bit happier. Returned to the I'le St Louis and am beginning to feel comfortable around the city.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Rest day after ski trip to Nevache
Tuesday Feb 22
We arrived at the Gare Asterlitz at 7:30 am then walked back home to the I'le St Louis. I spent the morning resting and organising photo and writing.
When we were in Biancon I booked the overnight trains from Paris to Nice and on to Trende for our next ski trip.
I also needed a day off to give some thought to my Barcelona trip.
In the afternoon I went out shopping for food and did a quick walk around the island to brush up on the surrounding shops and services. The French say you must go out every day in Paris.
We arrived at the Gare Asterlitz at 7:30 am then walked back home to the I'le St Louis. I spent the morning resting and organising photo and writing.
When we were in Biancon I booked the overnight trains from Paris to Nice and on to Trende for our next ski trip.
I also needed a day off to give some thought to my Barcelona trip.
In the afternoon I went out shopping for food and did a quick walk around the island to brush up on the surrounding shops and services. The French say you must go out every day in Paris.
Monday, February 21, 2011
Day 4 - Back-country ski trip from i re Magi refuge to the village of Nevache
Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22
Monday Feb 21
Our plan for Monday is to return to Nevache via the lower Col l'Echelle at only 1762 meters. The Refuse Manager, Francesca, has decided to climb the Col l'Echelle with us. So we left the refuge a little after 9 am and when Francesca had locked up the refuge.
We ski down the main road which was closed to regular traffic but groomed for skiers. It was a fast run around sweeping curves and switchbacks for about 4 kms. The trail up the Col l'Echelle had been simply packed for skiers by a skidoo and we quickly settled into a reasonably fast pace up the steep (for vehicles that is) and long climb.. There were a number of kilometer long switchbacks and each turn gave us wonderful view of high mountain peaks. The I'Aiguille Rouge (2545m), with its red limestone faces, and the Pointe Gaspand (2808m) on the east side of the valley.
Just before the top of the climb there were avalanche chutes to negotiate and tunnels to ski through (there is no snow inside tunnels!!). Final the national park display sign indicate the top and Francesca said her good-byes and skied back down. Fritz and I continue on a began to meet large group of walkers and skier ascending up from the far side. The Col l'Echelle had not yet been reached and it was another 2 kms of gentle climbing before we got there. There were a large number of skiers photographing each other at the Col sign post.
It was a nice easy run down the road to Nevache. the snow got a little thin before the end but caused up little problems.
We had been concern as to how we would ski/walk to Nevache but on reaching the main road we discover a freshly groomed cross-country racing trail. This trail when all the way to Nevache. At Nevache we got into trouble from the race organize for skiing on the track without registering first. Fritz calmed her down and when she heard where we had skied from she became very friendly and we were able to continue skiing on her track.
We may our way along the river, occasionally crossing the road and skiing between the houses. We arrive in the old village very early and in time to have lunch. After photographing the old church we had lunch at the Auberge Guillaume. After lunch we left our packs at the restaurant and skied further up the valley to some high small chapels. This gave us some good view of the valley and a nice ski run back down.
We picked up our pack and went to the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" to pick up my pack that had been left behind on Saturday. We had some hot wine here to fill in time before the bus left.
The Bus left at 7pm and we got on the train at Briancon to Paris. 10 hours to sleep.
 |
| Lodge Manager Francesca |
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| Refuse I de Magi |
Our plan for Monday is to return to Nevache via the lower Col l'Echelle at only 1762 meters. The Refuse Manager, Francesca, has decided to climb the Col l'Echelle with us. So we left the refuge a little after 9 am and when Francesca had locked up the refuge.
We ski down the main road which was closed to regular traffic but groomed for skiers. It was a fast run around sweeping curves and switchbacks for about 4 kms. The trail up the Col l'Echelle had been simply packed for skiers by a skidoo and we quickly settled into a reasonably fast pace up the steep (for vehicles that is) and long climb.. There were a number of kilometer long switchbacks and each turn gave us wonderful view of high mountain peaks. The I'Aiguille Rouge (2545m), with its red limestone faces, and the Pointe Gaspand (2808m) on the east side of the valley.
Just before the top of the climb there were avalanche chutes to negotiate and tunnels to ski through (there is no snow inside tunnels!!). Final the national park display sign indicate the top and Francesca said her good-byes and skied back down. Fritz and I continue on a began to meet large group of walkers and skier ascending up from the far side. The Col l'Echelle had not yet been reached and it was another 2 kms of gentle climbing before we got there. There were a large number of skiers photographing each other at the Col sign post.
It was a nice easy run down the road to Nevache. the snow got a little thin before the end but caused up little problems.
We had been concern as to how we would ski/walk to Nevache but on reaching the main road we discover a freshly groomed cross-country racing trail. This trail when all the way to Nevache. At Nevache we got into trouble from the race organize for skiing on the track without registering first. Fritz calmed her down and when she heard where we had skied from she became very friendly and we were able to continue skiing on her track.
We may our way along the river, occasionally crossing the road and skiing between the houses. We arrive in the old village very early and in time to have lunch. After photographing the old church we had lunch at the Auberge Guillaume. After lunch we left our packs at the restaurant and skied further up the valley to some high small chapels. This gave us some good view of the valley and a nice ski run back down.
We picked up our pack and went to the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" to pick up my pack that had been left behind on Saturday. We had some hot wine here to fill in time before the bus left.
The Bus left at 7pm and we got on the train at Briancon to Paris. 10 hours to sleep.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Day 3 - Back-country ski trip from the i Re Magi Refuge to the Col du Mont Thabon
Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22Sunday Feb 20
Well dawn broke at the i re Magi refuge with a surprise heavy snow fall around the refuge. We now planned to spend 2 nights at the i Re Magi.
Today (Sunday) we will complete the planned day trip over the Col de la Vallee-l'Echelle to the Mont Thabon refuge despite the snow.
We have decided not to return to Nevache village via the Col des Muandes 2828 meters on Monday. Fritz's investigation from local information suggested this route would be harder and 2 hours longer than our trip yesterday (day 2 - Saturday). Our modified plan for Monday is to return to Nevache via the lower Col l'Echelle at only 1762 meters. The Refuse Manager, Francesca, has decided to climb the Col l'Echelle with us. Her home area is around Naples where her summer job is as a Mountain guide. 
After a good breakfast Fritz and I set out in the snow for the Col de la Vallee-Etoite at 2526 meters. We skied back along the road that we can down yesterday over-taking a group of snow-shoers at the top of the first climb. We past the sign post at the track junction and this time continued north to cross the river on the Pont de la Fonderie (1897 meters) over the river Ruisseau de Vallee Etoite. We spent some time here taking photos and the Snow-shoers caught up to us. As we were following fresh ski tracks we had to work a little hard to get ahead of them again. The snow shoe tracks are no good to follow on skis. The ski tracks we were following where those of a group which left the Refuge 1 hour before us. They had to cross the Col de la Vallee-Etoite to catch a train at the larger town of Modane. Modane is about 12 km after crossing the Col.
We climbed steadily for about 1 km and reached a height of 2188 meters where we dropped down to cross a creek and then climbed steadily for about 2 km to 2326 meters. At this point the weather was turning with a stong wind and wet snow. Visibility was down to 3-5 meters in front and the ski trail was very difficult to follow. We were about 1 km from the Col but still needed to climb 200 meters. Fritz called a stop and had no opposition. We turned back and headed back down. The snow was excellent and skiing should have been great but, as this was a fresh fall it was "just" covering large limestone rocks. As soon as we start to ski we would crash (audibly) into these rocks with the usual results. Skiing remained like this until we were almost back to the river were we had a very nice 1 km run back to the bridge. Life wasn't meant to be easy.
On our way up earlier in the day we had seen a side trail to the Verde Lac and Fritz though this would be a nice place to have lunch so, on our return we took the trail. The trail descended to a bridge and then went vertically up a steep slope. The snow-shoers had no problem here but we did. There appeared to be an easier trail at a lower traverse and we cut that way for a while. We could not find the lake even after going almost all the way around the ridge. We finally went back to the original slope, took out skies off and walked up the steep slope. "Surprisingly" we ended up at a viewing point for the Lake. Not satisfied Fritz plugged steps down to the lake and we finally decided that it wasn't a very good lunch spot or a very good lake for that matter. We returned to the i re Magi refuge for lunch. A much more pleasant place.
Fritz went for a short afternoon ski on his own and took my Karhu Guide skis to try them out. He is now a convert and tried to get me to sell them to him.
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Day 2 - Back-country ski trip from the village of Nevache to the Col du Vallon
Back country skiing Biancon Feb 17 to 22
Saturday Feb 19 Click here for Photo album
After a good breakfast at the Gire "Le Creux des Souches" we were away at 8:50am heading back up the road to the walking track and upwards. We made good time and were feeling much better after a good sleep, and that I had left some "surplus" gear behind in the Gire (to be collected on Monday) so my pack was lighter.
We reached the top of the main climb in less than an hour and were up a the Chapel St Michel in less than 2 hours. The skies were clear and there was no wind today but we had put on our skins much earlier this time. We made our way passed the abandoned Chalet de Vallon refuge and headed more directly towards the Col du Vallon. Basically following our downwards ski tracks of yesterday. We could also see the faint downhill tracks of a previous ski group and this increased our confidence in our route selection.
We were enclosed by the sawing heights of the peaks of Crete des Garioles to the west and Rechers de la Paria, whose steep yellow/red limestone crags dominated the east side of the Vallee of the Torrent du Vallon. Our route was consistently steep as we traversed across the snow slope. Occasional "booming" sounds on fresh wind blown snow in small gullies reminded us that there was an ice layer beneath our feet and to constantly be aware of avalanche dangers. Fritz reprimanded me for skiing too close behind him as we should be well separated in these conditions. It was my turn to cut the track so I moved to the front.
Ahead we could make out the approximate position of the Col du Vallon. The Tour du Vallon (Tower of Vallon) could clearly be seen but the Col itself was obscured. On reaching the point where we had been forced to turn back yesterday the Col came in to view between the 2858 meter peak, le Recher Blanc, on the west and the impressive 2809 meter tower, the Tour du Vallon, on the east. Our re-estimates of the time from here to the Col was the same as yesterday as the route looked just as steep. The route took us up steeply to a narrow ridge which, surprisingly, lead directly to the Col at a reasonable slope. To our west was a circle of peaks surrounding Lac Blanc, the source of our "Torrent du Vallon". These 2900+ peaks dropped steep slopes to the lake. Fritz decided this was the spot for lunch as we could easily see our route to the Col. It was midday and we were here in good time.
Looking south down the Torrent du Vallon was an impressive view of distant craggy limestone peaks. The highest, was a "Matterhorn like" peak to the south. I have guessed it to be the 4102 meter peak in the south called "Barre des Ecrins". We left this very pleasant and memorable lunch spot and started our climb up to the Col du Vallon. We traversed around and small gully and worked our way on to the fine snow ridge which lead to the Col. Then, finally, we were on the Col du Vallon at 2645 meters. A small concrete plinth about 1 meter high, in a area scoured free of snow, marked the crossing. We took the time to experience such a remote and wild place as this, looking across to Lac Blanc and down the Torrents du Vallon from where we had came. We were satisfied that it was the correct decision to turn back yesterday and to repeat the crossing again today.
Our attention soon turned to the way forward. The Col presented us with a single and challenging prospect. The only way down was a double black run for some 200 meters or so. We didn't even think about removing our climbing skins and proceeded across the stones to the slope and pushed off. The snow was not dry, it was deep and require a definite attitude and angulation to keep our descent under control. we managed to get down the major slope without incident and took our climbing skins off for the remainder of the run. The snow was still heavy but skiing was better and we had a reasonably good run. To exit this valley we had to keep to the east side and pass under some very high and steep slopes coming down from the Tete du Chien. We moved quickly as we were able to follow the "up tracks" of previous skiers.
At the end of this traverse, at 2392 meters the snow condition deteriorated as the temperature dropped. A thick breakable crust developed over a deep layer of heavy fresh snow. The temperature has been around zero for most of the day. Ski-breakthrough-bog-fall became a repeated and frustrating sequence. Crust would break up into the thickness and weight of paving tiles. Impossible to turn. We muddled our was down to better slopes. The beauty of the mountains made up for the lack of skiing thrills. The 3222 meter peak Roche Bernarde and 3153 meter Pointe Balthazar were impressive companions.
At a high point a Christian Cross had been erected and we could see down to some ruined Chalets which we knew to be not far from our destination refuge "i re Magi" (The three Kings - we're in old Italian country now - the French just think it France). From here we reached a well used track down to the river "Ruisseau de Vallee Etrolte". A track junction sign-posted the way to our refuge for the night. (we are to return to this track junction tomorrow on our way to Mt Thabor - Sunday).
The track to i re Magi was well used and all downhill. So the next 2 kms went very quickly and skiing was more relaxed. The refuge i re Magi was in a little village and was a welcome sight. We were greeted by the very friendly Refuge Manager. We showered and changed for dinner, life slowed down and relaxation took over as we drank le vin et la bière. The meal was Italian - anti pasta, etc.
I re Mage was a popular destination and a party of 35 people came up on the (closed) road from the Italian side on skis, snowshoes and some came in to the refuge on a tiny over snow vehicle. They partied late and disappeared sometime during the night. i re Magi has a reputation for good food.
Slept well that night.
Saturday Feb 19 Click here for Photo album
We reached the top of the main climb in less than an hour and were up a the Chapel St Michel in less than 2 hours. The skies were clear and there was no wind today but we had put on our skins much earlier this time. We made our way passed the abandoned Chalet de Vallon refuge and headed more directly towards the Col du Vallon. Basically following our downwards ski tracks of yesterday. We could also see the faint downhill tracks of a previous ski group and this increased our confidence in our route selection. 
We were enclosed by the sawing heights of the peaks of Crete des Garioles to the west and Rechers de la Paria, whose steep yellow/red limestone crags dominated the east side of the Vallee of the Torrent du Vallon. Our route was consistently steep as we traversed across the snow slope. Occasional "booming" sounds on fresh wind blown snow in small gullies reminded us that there was an ice layer beneath our feet and to constantly be aware of avalanche dangers. Fritz reprimanded me for skiing too close behind him as we should be well separated in these conditions. It was my turn to cut the track so I moved to the front. 
Ahead we could make out the approximate position of the Col du Vallon. The Tour du Vallon (Tower of Vallon) could clearly be seen but the Col itself was obscured. On reaching the point where we had been forced to turn back yesterday the Col came in to view between the 2858 meter peak, le Recher Blanc, on the west and the impressive 2809 meter tower, the Tour du Vallon, on the east. Our re-estimates of the time from here to the Col was the same as yesterday as the route looked just as steep. The route took us up steeply to a narrow ridge which, surprisingly, lead directly to the Col at a reasonable slope. To our west was a circle of peaks surrounding Lac Blanc, the source of our "Torrent du Vallon". These 2900+ peaks dropped steep slopes to the lake. Fritz decided this was the spot for lunch as we could easily see our route to the Col. It was midday and we were here in good time. 
Looking south down the Torrent du Vallon was an impressive view of distant craggy limestone peaks. The highest, was a "Matterhorn like" peak to the south. I have guessed it to be the 4102 meter peak in the south called "Barre des Ecrins". We left this very pleasant and memorable lunch spot and started our climb up to the Col du Vallon. We traversed around and small gully and worked our way on to the fine snow ridge which lead to the Col. Then, finally, we were on the Col du Vallon at 2645 meters. A small concrete plinth about 1 meter high, in a area scoured free of snow, marked the crossing. We took the time to experience such a remote and wild place as this, looking across to Lac Blanc and down the Torrents du Vallon from where we had came. We were satisfied that it was the correct decision to turn back yesterday and to repeat the crossing again today.
Our attention soon turned to the way forward. The Col presented us with a single and challenging prospect. The only way down was a double black run for some 200 meters or so. We didn't even think about removing our climbing skins and proceeded across the stones to the slope and pushed off. The snow was not dry, it was deep and require a definite attitude and angulation to keep our descent under control. we managed to get down the major slope without incident and took our climbing skins off for the remainder of the run. The snow was still heavy but skiing was better and we had a reasonably good run. To exit this valley we had to keep to the east side and pass under some very high and steep slopes coming down from the Tete du Chien. We moved quickly as we were able to follow the "up tracks" of previous skiers.
At the end of this traverse, at 2392 meters the snow condition deteriorated as the temperature dropped. A thick breakable crust developed over a deep layer of heavy fresh snow. The temperature has been around zero for most of the day. Ski-breakthrough-bog-fall became a repeated and frustrating sequence. Crust would break up into the thickness and weight of paving tiles. Impossible to turn. We muddled our was down to better slopes. The beauty of the mountains made up for the lack of skiing thrills. The 3222 meter peak Roche Bernarde and 3153 meter Pointe Balthazar were impressive companions. 
At a high point a Christian Cross had been erected and we could see down to some ruined Chalets which we knew to be not far from our destination refuge "i re Magi" (The three Kings - we're in old Italian country now - the French just think it France). From here we reached a well used track down to the river "Ruisseau de Vallee Etrolte". A track junction sign-posted the way to our refuge for the night. (we are to return to this track junction tomorrow on our way to Mt Thabor - Sunday).
The track to i re Magi was well used and all downhill. So the next 2 kms went very quickly and skiing was more relaxed. The refuge i re Magi was in a little village and was a welcome sight. We were greeted by the very friendly Refuge Manager. We showered and changed for dinner, life slowed down and relaxation took over as we drank le vin et la bière. The meal was Italian - anti pasta, etc.I re Mage was a popular destination and a party of 35 people came up on the (closed) road from the Italian side on skis, snowshoes and some came in to the refuge on a tiny over snow vehicle. They partied late and disappeared sometime during the night. i re Magi has a reputation for good food.
Slept well that night.
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